/ Recommendations for edge rated ropes?
It's been a long while since I've needed to buy a rope, so I'm a bit out of the loop... can anyone recommend any edge rated single ropes (preferably 10mm to 10.5mm)?
Can't help on edge rating, but a unicore type rope would probably be beneficial for something like that.
any evidence for that?
Well if the rope sheath is damaged due to abrasion over the edge (likely if used over edges), then the new types of rope where the sheath is bonded to the core would prevent the sheath slipping off if the sheath is cut completely. Rope obviously unusable at this point, but would stop the rope slipping through a device that grips the outer (eg. ropeman type things and to a lesser extent, a belay plate.
I thought the sharp edge test was number of falls held over a sharp edge before the rope breaks not until the sheath gets damaged. In any case the UIAA no longer require this test now partially as there was a lot of variation between manufacturers.
I think the main advantage to unicore ropes is that once the sheath has gone through you can still ascend/descend the rope although it is said to help with sheath slippage too (not something I've had an issue with, with mammut ropes but I have with beal).
Abrasion resistance depends on tightness of sheath and greater sheath percentage (along with a lower bobbin count) and like for like mammut ropes are generally better in this regard compared with beal. (this article is quite interesting http://theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/Conference_on_nylon_and_ropes.pdf )
Sharp edge resistance I must admit I don't know which factors affect this (and I doubt you do either) I think we'd need to see some actual tests. But Beal do NOT state that Unicore technology helps in any way with this and they would have tested it as its a standard test on their ropes. I'm guessing there is little net gain with Unicore.
Having had ropes almost cut on me in the past I can see the benifit of unicore also I have been using 2 brand new beal ice lines, one unicore, one not, the unicore doesn't absorb as much water. One of them gets tangled and one of them doesn't I can't remember which way around.
I'd ignore sharp edge rating as UIAA stopped requiring the test as there were issues with applying it consistently.
For half ropes I think mammut are overall the best choice as they are very abrasion resistant and handle reasonably well. For single ropes I find the mammut ropes a little too wire like and will probably get something else next time. Elderid seem to have a good balance of abrasion resistance and being good to handle.
That said to be fair on beal my beal top gun was also a good rope.
Yes that is right. But a rope failure includes the sheath slipping off I am very sure. After all, if you're ascending or descending a rope and the sheath is cute, you don't care about how well the core is intact while you're plummeting attached only to the sheath :)
I would assume because the edge test, as you said, has been stopped as it was shown to be an unrealistic test that gave people the impression ropes were designed or able to resist this sort of abrasion, thus encouraging them not to protect the ropes over edges.
>"Yes that is right. But a rope failure includes the sheath slipping off I am very sure. After all, if you're ascending or descending a rope and the sheath is cute, "
If the core is intact the rope hasn't failed, but it would need retiring if its showing atall.
Nope its what I said
It has if the sheath has cut enough to separate and thus you slide off the end!!!
Yes if you're climbing and tied in... of course. But that isn't always the case - i.e. ascending or descending. And of course the person at the other end is belaying through a plate (chance of core slipping through sheath) and might not always be tied to the other end (though it is good practice to do so).
Thanks for the input and discussion. Much appreciated :)
It looks like the Beal Top Gun II 10.5m (unicore) is a good option. Any other suggestions welcomed.
Edelweiss makes a number of sharp edge resistant ropes. Here's a link to their 10.5 offering
I'm pretty sure they did away with that test years ago as it wasn't very good
> It has if the sheath has cut enough to separate and thus you slide off the end!!!
> Yes if you're climbing and tied in... of course. But that isn't always the case - i.e. ascending or descending. And of course the person at the other end is belaying through a plate (chance of core slipping through sheath) and might not always be tied to the other end (though it is good practice to do so).
Can you provide an instance when a climber has slid of the end of the rope because only the sheath was cut?
I found some literature which says this is only likely to occur if the sheath is cut through close to then ends, I had a google about and couldn't actually find an instance of this occurring. I think you are over emphasising the importance of unicore in this regard! (but equally not saying its never happened)
It's nearly up to date... once while seconding I fell off, taking s swing and the rope rubbed across gritstone bulge, cutting through most of the sheath. I was lowered off as the belayer spotted the cut.
While absailing on slate, similar kind of damage, didn't know untill we pulled the rope, this was abing off a dedicated bolted ab point, there were edges but nothing major or so we thought.
Then the third time with an instructor, this wasn't a cut through to the core but I was on top rope and took a fall with a very small swing, I was looking up at the rope and witnessed the rope turn into a pipe cleaner when it came in contact with the rock.
All the ropes were decent single ropes.
Ok so none of them actually cut through then! Still if we ever climb together remind me to use your ropes!
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