UKC

Which BIG cam for T. rex / elder crack?

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 The Grist 17 Mar 2014
After scaring myself stupid on strapiombo at tremadog yesterday I think the time has come to invest in a size 5 or 6 Camalot. I would rather not buy both. I already own the size 4. I am tempted to buy the really big one which should open the door to some extremely disgusting routes.

If people can confirm what size is needed for T. Rex at Gogarth or elder crack at curbar it would help my decision.

Many thanks.
In reply to The Grist:

Hi, my bro used a size 6 on elder crack!
 Ian Carr 17 Mar 2014
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Is he your big bro ?
In reply to The Grist:

Ummm yes, any particular reason why?
 Reach>Talent 17 Mar 2014
In reply to Euan McKendrick:

http://www.trango.com/p-267-big-bro.aspx

Because everyone loves a bad climbing joke.

Buy both, you know you want to really.
 AJM 17 Mar 2014
In reply to The Grist:

My friend used a 5 on Elder Crack, and I was told by a friend that that's also the size for t.rex although I've not personally tested that yet.
 Phill Mitch 17 Mar 2014
In reply to AJM:

Was he your big friend!
Sorry couldn't resist!
 Tom Last 17 Mar 2014
In reply to The Grist:

I fell on a WC #6 friend on Elder Crack and screamed like a big baby.

Seemed to do the trick though.
 Peter Milner 17 Mar 2014
In reply to The Grist:

I used size 6 camalot on both. It fits nicely in T-Rex, but you could probably use a 5 on Elder.
OP The Grist 17 Mar 2014
In reply to The Grist:

Cheers for the replies. I think if I had a 4 and 6 that would actually cover the full size range offered by a 5 so would be unlucky if I found anywhere I could not cover.
In reply to The Grist:

I was there on Sat and pretty much thought the same as you when I got to the top of the chimney. Managed to get a cam in a hold to allow me to run away with my tail inbetween my legs.
In reply to Reach>Talent:

Ah yes I get it no! Bit slow on the uptake!
OP The Grist 17 Mar 2014
In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Someone had put something in the back of the crack midway up but there was no way I was getting near it. I actually considered removing my helmet at one point as it was stuck. You did well to place a cam in anything unless it was a massive one.
In reply to The Grist:
I tried to retrieve that hex when I abbed in to retrieve the cam but it was too far back - I've no idea how it got there.

> I actually considered removing my helmet at one point as it was stuck.

I didn't wear one for that reason - made that mistake on The rift at Gogarth.
Did you notice the loose blocks at the base of the chimney?
Post edited at 21:38
OP The Grist 17 Mar 2014
In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Yes. My friend actually went up first and retreated. As he did so he kicked them loose and We managed to put them all back together. It was very dodgy as there were loads of people on the severe next to us and at the bottom of that route. They should probably be removed otherwise they could dislodge at a bad time.
In reply to The Grist:

Yeah I mentioned it to a few instructors and I posted on here about them in the hope someone would be able to remove them but the weather's been too nice and not everyone wants to climb a vegetated thrutchfest. Hopefully they will be removed safely soon.
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