/ prusik lengths
I saw a video where the guide uses 2 waist prusiks and attached a krab and a sling to 1 to make his footloop.
I would just go with the short Loops, and as you say, can extend with slings, quickDraws etc as Required.
Or carry a couple of nylon slings as Standard, Which can be used with klemheist Knots as ascenders.
3x1.5m myself. One as a prussic, one to extend with a sling for a foot loop, one because someone is bound to have forgotten a foot loop prussic and need it.
ha so true
1x1.25m and 1x1.5m
If I was to need one for a foot loop I'd use a sling.
I x 1.2m (waist / abseil backup) and 1 x 2.0m (foot loop). Both in 5mm cord. Tried 6mm cord and it doesn't bite as well. I'd not trust 4mm cord. I've tried these lengths as self rescue dangling from end of rope as if fallen off traverse, and they work well on both single and one half rope. French prussic on the short one and klemheist on the foot loop.
Out of interest, how many have tried ascending on their own chosen setup?
Similar here. Short and long in 5mm but I also keep a short prussik in 4mm as a backup or if I'm not getting enough bite on a thin icy rope (eg. Iced 8mm)
Tried my setup... works on doubled ropes too. Though if I have to ascend at leisure, I'd setup both with slings on krabs so I'd have a nice holder on each.
I have a short one, enough for a 6 wrap. Then I have much longer one, long enough to make releasable through a munter mule.
I do as needvert. I carry one long and one short.
One long 6mm loop that I also use to attach the chalkbag around my waist. I can move the chalkbag out of my way in chimneys. The long loop can be used for Prusik, load releasable knot, abseil tat or extending the abseil plus a leash ( http://www.vimeo.com/54302232 ). I attach it around my waist using a sheet bend.
Another short 6mm loop clipped or girth hitched to my harness. I use this to autoblock the abseil or as a short prusik which I can extend with slings, if necessary. I've used it doubled over as a short draw in a pinch.
Yes, I've practiced using this to prusik but never had to use it in anger -- so far.
one 1.5m x 6mm loop and a 5m x 7mm cordelette that can be used in numerous ways for belays and rescue techniques (e.g. escaping the belay).
One which is my chalk bag cord and one which is long enough to use to escape an indirect belay with remote anchors without the need for an extra sling (as chances are I ever need to do this I'll have used my slings.
Most of the time I won't carry any at all. If I'm expecting to be abseiling or doing anything adventurous I'll usually have one short prusik with me; very rarely more than that.
I've done quite a few adventurous things and somehow always managed with what was available without needing to carry kit for every eventuality - that's part of the fun of it ;-)
2 x 1m for me. Anyone who has tried to stand in a cord foot loop in rock shoes knows that you really need to spread the load with one or two slings if you don't want to chop your foot off !
You can make a long prissik short but you can't make short prissik long.
If you've run out of slings and you need to thread or hoop a spike, a short prissik might not do it.
Elsewhere on the site
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
More than 20 years after first setting eyes on the peak and noting it as a potential objective, Mick Fowler, with Paul Ramsden,... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more