UKC

Looking at my first real winter trip to the alps.

I dont have much experience so myself and pals are looking at the Ercins area, mainly for mountaineering/climbing.

Any Advise on route and guidebooks would be brilliant.

In reply to Somerville:

to climb or ski ?

In reply to Doug:

climb dude

In reply to Somerville:

A Winter trip to the Ecrins?

If you are thinking of Winter alpinism and you don't have much experience or skill at ski-touring/familiarity with snowshoes or a lot of Summer alpine experience, my advice is don't.

It can get very cold indeed in the Ecrins in Winter, days are short depending on when you go and the avalanche risk is frequently considerable, while the weather can be ferocious. Most people, including Summer alpinists, steer well clear of the high mountains in Winter, those that do go are normally very good and experienced - or very naïve and foolish!

If roadside ice, there are several websites that give information of varying degrees of usefulness/timeliness :

http://www.ice-fall.com/ - particularly :

http://www.ice-fall.com/ri/Conditions/de/glace/307.aspx for individual areas.

Mostly oriented toward the East of the massif.

The guide book for most of the massif is now very old, Les six valleys in Oisans, though I think there is quite a new guidebook for the area around Briancon in the East. There are also quite a lot of coffee table type books appearing, normally you will need to get these (or at least order them from), France, typically in Grenoble or Briancon.

Rather than Winter, late Spring is a delightful time to be in the Ecrins, with longer days, often good weather. You will still mostly need to be able to ski or snowshoe though, depending on how high into the mountains you are going.

In reply to Somerville:

Just to clarify, roadside ice climbing (which is not always that close to the road), is quite different to Winter alpinism. Quite a lot of people will successfully have good roadside ice-trips (still hazards and weather affected), in December, January, etc, but not many people can safely or usefully venture into the high Ecrins in Winter.

In reply to Simon4:

Thanks Simon.

Our my idea is just to get mileage, we where looking at going later summertime (sep). If you have any advise on where and what it would be useful.

In reply to Simon4:

There's a newish topo from Sebastien Constant (in 2 volumes Ascensions en neige et mixte tome 1 : Ecrins est, Cerces, Queyras; tome 2 Ecrins ouest) which might be useful - I've only glanced at them in a bookshop but think they cover winter (or at least spring) climbing.

Agree its a serious place in mid winter, but I suspect a spring visit could be good.

In reply to Somerville:
Well first you need to clarify what sort of climbing you want to do.

Long rock routes, frequently bolted - they are to be found in valleys like the Ailefroide valley or on the other side in La Berade, also lots of bolted crags slightly further out from the main massif. Topo guides are best for these, other people will know more about the specifics of these than me.

Alpinism? September is probably either too late or too early. Too late because it is quite far South and everything will be most likely dry, with crevasses open rocks crumbling and not held together by ice. Too early because in October fresh snow may come in and offer possible high mountain routes.

You might be able to climb the rock routes on the Aiguille Dibona at around 2500m, but I suspect it is quite late in the year for that. One quite important point is that the huts (and possibly even some roads), may be shut by then, you need to check this and possibly carry food/stoves to stay in Winter rooms. The roads to La Berade on the West and Ailefroide in the East are not kept open during the Winter. It is possible (but not that likely), that they could be already closed by then. The road by La Grave over the Col du Lauteret is kept open all Winter as it is a major through road. You should not need Winter equipment for a car then unless you are very unlucky.

Just to walk in the mountains and get the feel of the massif - I would think, if you are lucky with the weather, it could be glorious.

Disclaimer : I have been to the Ecrins very often, but never in September.

In reply to Doug:


Any idea if they are like for like replacements of the old valley ice guides? Could be useful if so.

In reply to Simon4:

Okay dude, thats all something to think about. Ideally then early august is a good time to go for Alpine and rock climbing?

In reply to Somerville:
Early August is a typical time to go. As it is fairly South, I would prefer early July. Routes like the North couloir of Les Bans are normally out after late June.

(Obviously no given year can be predicted in advance, last year was very snowy in late June, these are high mountains so subject to unpredictable weather).

In reply to Somerville:

Hi

I live in the Ecrins, east side, if you like drop me an email saying what kind if climbing you like or would like to do, and I can put so e info together for you?

Cheers Rob

In reply to Simon4:


... and I've been there in late June when it was all dry and v. hot. The joys of seasonal variation!

In reply to Somerville:

The Constant guide book (you can get it from needle sports) is written from a winter alpine/ skimountaineering perspective, so much so that it can be a little confusing in summer. A lot of winter alpinism does seem to get done in the Ecrins in winter and Skimountaineering is also really big, but from hearsay the guys that are doing it tend to be locals and pretty good, but my experience really is limited to one week of road side Ice. In summer which ive got a little more knowledge about the classic snow and mixed routes are best late June early July after that things tend to thin out and steepen up. If your doing rock alpinism which is the best bet in August/Sept I'd suggest getting the Oisians nouveau, Oisians Sauvage guide book when you get out there, the text is french but the topos and info is a lot better than the AC guide book. Camp to Camp is a good source of info but again its in french.
Hope this is helpful.

In reply to Somerville:

Oh and Badmarmot was very helpful in providing info last year for my trip.

In reply to Somerville:

If you are thinking of going in early September, I think that is the best time of year for multi-pitch rock and Alpine rock routes in the Ecrins, I often go there at that time of year. You should also be able to get some decent Alpine stuff done as well.
The main huts are still open but very quiet. Many approaches are snow free such as the Dibona, Sialouze(possible small glacier for some routes).
If you mainly want to do Alpine snow, ice and glacier routes the go late June or early July. Late July and early August get very busy.
If you give me an idea of what your after I can give more specific advice.

In reply to Martin Haworth:

Hi, thats for the reply!

Im/We're looking for some simple aplanism like The Dome des Ecrins, something easy enough for beginner level. Anything at an easy level to clock up some mileage.

Hope this is enough detail for a better respond, thanks again.

In reply to Somerville:

You should be fine early September for stuff like the Dome des Neige, but for more easy Alpinism then early July would be better if can go then.
Good routes to try whenever you go are:
Dome de Neige
Pic Coolidge
Roche Faurio
Mont Pelvoux

In reply to Somerville:

Yeah, the Dome was easy enough for solo, don't slip off the traverse though. Pic Coolidge only has a slightly odd rock move low down, pinnacles at the top. Think also of the Montagne des Agneaux from Vallouise, a slog to the col, traverse then a gully to climb. From La Grave, Le Rateau. Perhaps the Grande Ruine? Lots to do.