I currently climb in 5.10 galileos (wide version of the Anasazi VCS I was told at the time of purchase) and I love everything about them, apart from one thing. There is about an inch of read space at the back of my foot as my heel doesn't fill the cup. It's getting to the point where they are effecting the grad I climb at as anything that requires a heel hook, they simply just peel off, no matter how tight they're done up. For everything else, I've never had or used a shoe that I like anywhere near as much nor have I found one that I am as confident in my foot placements on tiny edges. They are also reasonably comfortable, and appear to be the perfect stiffness for me.
In reply to MikeStuart26: This. Any recommendations people give just aren't going to be the same for you, we all have funky shaped feet.
As above too, buy them from the shop that let you try all the different models out and answered all your questions. Don't be afraid to try on a LOT of different models in a lot of different sizes.
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...