UKC

Is this the best stuff to use?

5.5mm Dyneema Cord x 0.75 metre individual lengths £3.00

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Cord-Tape/Nut...
*other shops are available, I don't work for them.

Or is there a stronger/cheaper/better alternative?

Thanks in advance :+)

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

This is what I have used and afaik there is no other alternative to using cord, the thickness of which is not overly important. I reslung my WC hexs with 7mm as this is the size of the holes in them, but I dont think that 5.5mm would make any difference either.

Cord and Double fishermans knots I believe is correct?

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

If theyre black Diamonds, i believe they re sling them for Free, you just pay postage.

In reply

Thanks, both.


There's a table on the website that lists the different diameter cord for each size of hex.
5.5mm is recommended for WC Friends and apparently breaks at 15.89kN (presumably when new without knots) and they recommended a triple fisherman's. Is dyneema slippery like spectra?

In reply to Choss:


That sounds like a good deal, but unfortunately not, and they're more than 10 years old so WC wouldn't do them.

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

Theres some Issue with Knots and dyneema, not sure what exactly? thatll be why they Recommend a triple fishermans i Expect.

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

There's a video on the DMM website about knotting dyneema, which is really good:

http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/knotting-dyneema-vid/

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

*The video is really good I mean. Knotting dyneema isn't.

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

Black Diamond are a different company to Wild Country. They re-sling Camalots, but not quite for free. (Though they only charge $5 each plus return postage.)

If you were willing to pay a fair bit in postage and be without them for a while though, you could send your cams on holiday to the USA to have new slings put on:
http://mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/cams/mt_camresling.htm

In reply to deepsoup:
its free to resling your cams at BD if your are based in the UK. You only pay to get the cams to them the resling them and post them back for nothing! They even did the trigger wires on mine for free too!

In reply to RyanOsborne:
there's a big difference between dyneema cord and dyneema tape. The tape should not be knoted to form a loop. The cord can be and a triple fishermans should be used.

In reply to CurlyStevo:
Oh cool. I stand corrected then.

That's really rather excellent.

In reply to deepsoup:

I must say though I'm not sure there website says this. But Toby A's UKC article does mention they have said they would do it for free and when I emailed them about it they didn't quibble at all.

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

I used pre-sewn 6mm slings from Mammut, about 30 or 36cm IIRC. 8mm work too and are easier to find. It's neat, whether it's better than cord is debatable until the cows come home.

jk

In reply to jkarran:



How do you thread the pre-sewn slings and keep them in place or do you just larks-foot them on?

In reply to jkarran:

Do you mean Chris Tan Death style? http://www.kakibusok.plus.com/Equipment/ReslingCams/Resling.htm

I thought about it..but I'm a bit scared of the thought of clipping one end of the sling by mistake. Maybe the two ends of the sling could be carefully sewn together? Not to be load bearing, but enough to form a safe single loop to clip.
Anyone done this?

In reply to CurlyStevo:


I was surprised by the video! Are knotted loops in cord safer? Know of any tests done?

In reply to Ron Walker:


I use them doubled with both loops clipped but if I need some extension they can be pulled into a larksfoot and the remaining single loop clipped. I know, I know... I'm 'gunna die!' but probably not of slightly slapdash cam slings

I have a hunch the larksfoot is the technically superior option as the stitched section has some more freedom to move, you can periodically loosen and move the sling a bit so wear is not concentrated at any single point. With the sling doubled the stitched length pretty much prevents any periodic re-alignment.

Still, I prefer them doubled so they're not swinging around my knees.

jk

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:


Pretty much but without the outer sheath. If you accidentally clip one loop a quick tug shows it up. The main issue is when adding an extender it can be a little fiddly to get both loops but as I leave the racking krab on them I don't have to, I just clip the extender sling into that.

Anyway, I'm not pushing it as the perfect solution, it has its issues but it's the one I preferred.

jk

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

yes dyneema cord is designed to be knoted. I'm fairly certain most brands have a nylon sheath and a dyneema/spectra core. Tests have been done yes! (but I'll leave you to google them)

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Cord-Tape/Cor...

Anyway what would the point be of selling it to climbers off the reel otherwise!

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks for the reply.
I thought as much but wondered about cheaper safer lighter safer options.

In reply to jkarran:

Thanks, I can see some benefits to using a doubled sling but I'd prefer the idiot proof nature of a single loop.

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:




Yep, mine are just roughly sewn together with a few hand stitches.

In reply to jimtitt:

Thanks, Jim! Thought it may have just been a crazy idea of mine.

How are you finding it? Any scary moments?

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:




I use a 30 cm 8mm sling and a Petzl string, carabiner holder. Works pretty good.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/johangille/13648305373/

JOHAN

In reply to johan gille:

Thanks, Johan. I assume you try to never take that krab off the cam!

In reply to Ffion Blethyn:

Yes, your assumption is correct. The krab stays with the cam.

In reply to johan gille:

Neat.

In reply to johan gille:




I've thought about that it looks neat and should work OK but would like to be able to remove the crab.

Great to see folk thinking out of the box!

I've always wondered if anyone has done any tests on the sling just larks footed through the Friend's eye and how much it is actually weakened used like that?

In reply to johan gille:

Looks like a good solution but is there not a risk of the open sling passing back through the carabiner and this happening?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=20

In reply to RANGITOTO:
There is a slight possibility that it could occur but it seems very unlikely and a risk I´m willing to take. A bit of tubular tape would reduce this risk to about zero. I made mine with tube tape at first but removed it. It was difficult to get the thumb in place, especially when winter climbing.