UKC

Giggleswick Scar South

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 CPH 05 Apr 2014
Thinking of making first visit this week, for a change from Horseshoe and The Edge!
Any recommendations for sectors, routes etc in the 6s?
Any other comments welcome: parking, access, quality of rock...
I have the 2012 version topo...good work Paul, Dave and Nigel.
Thanks
In reply to CPH:

Parking is in a small layby just past the golf club house when heading NW out of Settle/Giggleswick.

Quality of rock varies from decent to fairly poor. The crag is on/very near the Craven Fault line. Be warned that the guide is very liberal with stars especially on the poorer sectors.

The approach path meets the crag at Sector Swans, the routes on the larger RH side of this are all worth doing, those on the left aren't so good. Up and to the right is the Swallows Nest area, some pleasant if short easy 6s here.

Going left you have sector Golf, the routes on the front of this are all worth doing though the 6b+ is harder than the 6c! The next area, Sector Laughter is the best on the crag but the easiest routes are 6b+/6c. You then pass some small areas before getting to Sector Bonhomie which has some good long routes. This merges in to The Wilderness Walls which is the last major area - some decent routes here though things are quite close together at times.

HTH
 Alpenglow 05 Apr 2014
In reply to CPH:

Don't go with high expectations. Black Swan Rising (6b?) is the crag classic. The entrance is from small layby opposite the golf course. There is room for 4/5 cars. Walk in is about 10 mins uphill.
If you don't have the latest topo, it's on the Leeds Wall site.
In reply to blackreaver:

a) It's better than the wall
b) It's better than Horseshoe Qy
c) There are better places to go.
 AJCW 05 Apr 2014
In reply to CPH:

If you want to climb in the 6th grade in that area go to Robin Proctor Scar. It is much better than Giggleswick and has better views. It also dries with OK speed.
OP CPH 06 Apr 2014
In reply to AJCW:

thanks for the comments
 1poundSOCKS 06 Apr 2014
In reply to CPH: Just beware Robin Proctor's on a windy day, it is very exposed. Giggleswick is far more sheltered. Tuesday/Wednesay this week are looking windy.


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