UKC

Hi,
So, has anyone used these on the crags yet?
How do they compare to the old pinks, the verdes and the blancos? (I have a pair of each).
Cheers,
Jase

In reply to JCurrie:

I've said it before, best shoe I've ever bought, but that's just because they fit my foot better than any other shoe I've tried. I also prefer a flat, comfy shoe. I've mainly used them for limestone sport climbing, including a month in Siurana, up to 7a+, and I can't think of anything negative to say. I imagine they'll be my shoe of choice for all my outdoor climbing.

Never used the old pinks or blancos, but I have tried on the verdes in the shop, and the heel doesn't fit well at all.

In reply to JCurrie:

great, as expected a blend between the greens and whites. Perhaps slightly more to the whites but that might be because they haven't fully softened up yet.

Heel isn't as baggy and crap as the greens, not as aggressive and pain inducing as the whites were before they broke in.

In reply to JCurrie:
Whiter shade of green sounds promising to me. I may be completing the set soon, methinks.
Thanks,
J

In reply to JCurrie:

I had the Verdes as a first shoe and the Blancos as my third/fourth pair - as has been said above, if those are a good fit, then you'll find the Pinks to be superb, and I reckon mine are hands down the comfiest shoe I've ever owned, straight out of the box to boot. The heel is miles better, but overall I'm not sure they're as good as the Blancos for bouldering, as they're definitely less stiff, but for an all-day trad shoe they are incredible.
Regarding sizing; I took a 9 in the Blancos, and the Pinks in 8.5 feel slightly roomier - possibly you'd want to slip them off once or twice during a big multipitch route, but they seem like a really good balance between performance and comfort.
We spent a day at Rivelin yesterday and I, having not climbed on grit since August and doing only S-HVS-ish routes this year so far, comfortably got up Fringe Benefit (slabby E1, which is the hardest I've climbed) without ever feeling like I was breaking in new shoes or that they felt different.

In reply to JCurrie:

Was looking at these in Joe Brown's the other day.

Glad to hear good things and that the heal is better than the greens, love my greens, super comfy, fit me well and sticky but the heal is crap.

In reply to JCurrie:

The difference between the Pinks and the Greens & Whites is that I think the toe is lower volume, i.e your toes sit flatter. I also think they feel a little roomier. Basically a different fit that is a little larger and comfier but you get less power out of them.

I am a massive fan of the whites so was really excited to get to test the new pinks to see how they compared. I like a really stiff shoe and will/would size them half a size down from my normal white size to try and get the same performance.

Dunc

In reply to Duncan Campbell - UKC:

so let me get this right- 'the toe is lower volume....they feel a little roomier'

this is not a helpful reply to someone asking for help with shoes

In reply to tom:


Removing the 'don't offend the advertisers' filter, this is what Duncan meant:



Pinks are more comfortable but not as good as Whites for someone wanting the best performance.


I'm going to try wearing my Pinks really tight in the hope this might get me closer to the performance of the Whites.


Five Ten, not everyone wants soft shoes, please put a technical stiff shoe in your range again. Bring back the Whites or I'll have to defect to Scarpa.

In reply to tom84:

Sorry - that is confusing. What I meant by this is that when I have compared my same size pinks and whites - the pinks look about half a size larger. This could be intentional from 5.10 so that they can make a more comfortable shoe that holds the toes flatter? Does this make sense?

Basically my toes are less crimped in a pair of pinks than they were in my whites - this makes them better for grit but worse at places like Malham or the Slate?

I'll be writing a more full review along with a number of other Performance Shoes at the end of the summer.

Dunc

In reply to Duncan Campbell - UKC:

I noticed that too, I went down a half size from my greens. Then again my greens were a full size smaller than my whites. I fit them all nice and snug.

I think 5.10's sizing needs to be taken with a pinch of salt, even with the same model.