UKC

hi, I'm planning on going climbing with a friend for the week end of easter, I've been looking for the spots near Matlock (where we'll be staying)The wild cat crag seemed very interesting to me, however we are limited in material, we only have ropes and quickdraws, No stoppers or things like that. So I wanted to know if the ways were equipped so that we didn't need stoppers. Our level is about 6c

In reply to leclerj:

No, Wildcat is an entirely trad crag, so you will not be able to climb there with the gear that you have.

In reply to leclerj:

There is some sport at High Tor you can do though, no idea if its much good

In reply to leclerj:
New Bridge Buttress, just up the hillside as you cross the bridge has about 7 bolted lines, I think 6b+ is the easiest, the rest are 7s..
Jon

In reply to Simon4:

Thank you gor your answers, I will probably cancel my reservation then. Do you know any spot in the peak district or elsewhere that would be well equipeed with a great number of ways?

In reply to leclerj:

Plenty in the quarries round Matlock.

In reply to jshields:

I've been looking, but I cannot find the info about if they are equipped or not. How do I find it?
Is it like if they are registered as "sport climbing" sports, they are equipped?

In reply to leclerj:
The really good quality Peak sport climbing is generally in the higher grades, and some of the classic venues take a good summer to come into condition. That said, there are a few possible options in the vicinity:

Long Tor Quarry
Masson Lees Quarry
Horseshoe Quarry
Smalldale Quarry
The Embankment & Max Wall, Cheedale

Personally, I wouldn't come to the Peak on a sport climbing trip unless I climbed in the 7/8 grades, I'd go to Portland on the S.Coast or to Pen Trwyn in N.Wales.

Generally, a UK grade like E3 5c means a trad route (not equipped), a French grade means sport (equipped). Some crags have both alongside each other, and you may well find some sport routes are "engaging".

In reply to danm:
Ok, thank you very much, I'll see what I can do

In reply to leclerj:

Just to clarify what Danm means by "engaging" (I am guessing that English is not your first language, let alone climbing euphemisms), it means very long and possibly dangerous intervals between bolts, also the first bold may be too high to prevent a groundfall from the first difficulties.

In reply to leclerj:

I see, wheere I climbed in france we called engaging ways, ways that had about 3 meters between each point, are we talking about that kind of engaging?

In reply to leclerj:

no

In reply to leclerj:

Lots of Gary Gibsons sport routes all around Matlock.

Loads of free info on his website

www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Beware though, some are on private land with no access agreements and the rest are best described as 'a bit loose' if you're optimistic, or a 'pile of rubble' if you are a realist.

There are some amazing hidden gems though.