UKC

I will be in North Devon all next week and was thinking of climbing on Tintagel Head. I understand written permission is required but was wondering if its even worth applying at this time of year (is the sensitivity to do with nesting birds?). If not, does anyone know if I'm likely to get a reply back in time if I write today (or better is there an email address?).

P.S. Just how hard is Il Duce really?

Dave

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Archaeological reasons not birds.

Email, try:
southwest@english-heritage.org.uk

In reply to Removed UserJohn Willson:

Thanks John, I'll try the email.

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

I think at least one guidebook provides an address, i sent an SAE and got no reply, think i'll try emailing too, thanks john.

Cheers
Dave

In reply to dave frost:

The address in the 2000 NDC guide was correct at the time. I know, because I went through the permission hoop myself when editing the book and took my dogs for a walk round the headland. Sadly, though, Il Duce was not within my repertoire (then, now, or ever)!

The current postal address is English Heritage, South West Office, 29 Queen Square, Bristol BS1 4ND. The grade remains at E5 6a in the new South West Climbs Vol 2, which has a nice picture of the route and is due out in about a month from now.

John

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

There has been discussion on the grade, with some maintaining it's only E4. It is certainly one of the most atmospheric and committing routes on the Atlantic coast, perhaps partly due to the contrast with the crowds above and the general hype surrounding Tintagel.

In reply to Iain Peters:

Well I hope its easier than The Jackal at Wintours Leap as that route has spat me off every time so far !!

Cheers
Dave

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Thanks to all for the info and advice. If we get permission and the weather holds, I'll report back.

Dave

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Went there a few years back, hadn't applied for permission, just turned up, paid the entrance fee and told them we were climbing. No problems. Would appreciate any feedback on grades etc. for the new guide. (North Coast, definitive).

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Advise putting at least your E5 hat on for it. FWIW we found it the hardest route we did on a trip that included Darkinbad, Fay and Pacemaker. It was wet but I suspect the crux pitch is usually wet. Also, the pitch after the crux one is a bit of an eye-opener!

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Thanks Alan, Young Dave will certainly be in the lead on the crux pitch though I did quite like the idea of leading the next one (might change that in light of your comments).

To All,

I got a very prompt and helpful email response from the chap below including download forms which need signing and handing in on site on the day you climb. Apparently the London address currently on the RAD is less reliable.

Douglas Richardson
Property Supervisor
English Heritage
Tintagel Castle
Tintagel
PL34 0HE
Tel: 01840 770328
Fax: 01840 772105
douglas.richardson@english-heritage.org.uk

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

It's been tipping it down all day here Dave and the slate is not too clever for friction when wet....Mixed forecast for the coming week.

In reply to Dave Musgrove:


I thought it more E4 than E5, and more 6a than 6b, but I would add the caveat that I did it on a very calm and dry day, with someone who had already done the route, and with another rope on the route at the same time, all of which probably made the 'emotional' aspect of the route a bit more benign.

Irrespective of this, it is a brilliant big route, with a lot of atmosphere - definitely 3* +++.

In reply to Goucho:

Accepting that not everything is on the web, there are surprisingly few photos of Il Duce to be found.

I think the only one I've ever seen of the crux roof section is the one taken by Rob Matheson of Ed Cleasby in Extreme Rock. There's a couple of the 5c groove on-line. I haven't even come across a shot of the crag from the sea (I know it's not visible from the mainland).

Truly one of the more mysterious crags.

In reply to Bob:



There are a couple including a topo taken from the sea in Mark Glaister's Rockfax and probably some in Littlejohn's CC SW Climbs Vol. 2 due out at the end of May. The crag profile is strikingly obvious when walking South along the coastal footpath from Tintagel church.

In reply to Dave Musgrove:


When you get down to it; one slightly tricky three-dimensional move, in a reasonably-protected but exciting position. Definitely E4 rather than E5, unless you fail and the sea gets up, of course. It can take a while to reach this conclusion, though.

It's useful to have one of those offset wires in about size four; the type that had a red handle in some antediluvian range of gear made in the mid-90's (Simond, maybe?).

jcm