UKC

Looking for a sport climbing location for October. Here's the spec...

1) Dry and warm
2) A couple of hours from a major airport
3) Europe, Asia or North Africa
4) 4 - 7 grade range


Recommendations please...

In reply to Motown:

You're spoilt for choice in October so a lot will depend on what kind of climbing you want to do, e.g. single or multi-pitch, limestone or granite.

It's one of the driest and most settled months of the year here in Ariège, which of course I would heartily recommend for virtually all types of sport climbing!

In reply to john arran:

Non specific on rock type. Single pitch with full grade range but some low grade multi-pitch would be really good.

Would like to visit your part of the world - a good suggestion.

In reply to john arran:
How's the weather at Easter? Thinking about a visit there in a year's time. Flying from Doha so the two week holiday then seems more worth the ticket price.

In reply to Motown:

A bit of a more unusual recommendation but it does meet all your criteria.
We were in Crimea last summer and it was great but a bit too hot, should be nice in October! Beautiful scenery and nice cheap beer... but I hear things have changed a bit recently.
Anyway if you are feeling brave check out Redstone (Krasnokamenka), Sokol mountain near Sudak and Nikita.

In reply to Andes:

Like the idea of an adventurous sport climbing location. Not entirely convinced in current climate though...

In reply to Motown:


Well this year has been pretty typical in that we've had mostly fine weather, some hot and some unsettled. It was unusually warm (mid-20s) at the start of last week, staying very sunny but cooling to 20 or so by the weekend, yesterday was colder (13) with no sun and a little rain, today sunnier again and a mixed forecast for the next few days with 20 degrees on sunny days and 14 on showery ones. All the crags are bone dry.

This time of year I would expect sunny day temps around 19-22 and in a two week period over Easter I'd guess to expect 3-5 part-days of rain on average, although you'd be unlucky to get more than one day where you wouldn't want to go out at all (and there's limited all-weather options for that day!)

Hope that helps.

In reply to john arran:

Very helpful, thank you. Watching the rain here in Spain and plotting future trips.

In reply to Motown:

Yeah... I'd love to go back, but this year probably isn't the time!!

In reply to Motown:

Finale in Northern Italy would fit the bill. Good spread of grades, single and multi pitch climbs - all very accessible. Lovely scenery, weather pretty reliable and nice food.

I have been three times and have never been disappointed.

In reply to Motown:

Sella, Alicante, Spain, fits your profile. And now there are so many places to stay in the village, just a couple of km from the crags... October would be awesome. Check out www.sella-costablanca.com or www.casaroc.com
Steve G

In reply to Motown:


While Ariège isn't notably more adventurous than most Euro sport areas I did put up a cool 3-pitch bolted 'adventure-sport' route last winter you or others might find fun. It starts at the back of a huge deep cavern, with just enough ambient light to climb the slightly crumbly 6a pitch (a headtorch helps). The second pitch is a very solid and varied 6b+ and is much lighter as it passes a huge 'window' cave opening. The top pitch is a great 6b+ until the last bolt, after which there's a brief 7a move to reach the top anchor in a 'skylight' cave opening. 100m or so in total and completely dry during rain, although suffers from some seepage in winter if it's been raining a lot.

It's called Le Trog and it's just 15 minutes walk from Chez Arran. Let me know if you want more info as it isn't yet published anywhere.