/ Bargoed & Navigation Quarry

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Ian Bell - on 29 Apr 2014
Thinking of visiting these this weekend. Any pearls of wisdom from UKC on routes to try, bits that seep etc? Thanks for the help.
mattrm - on 29 Apr 2014
In reply to Ian Bell:

Never been to Bargoed.

However there's lots of good stuff at Navigation. The sport routes are often quite run out in places, so if you pick a sport route as a warm up, then it might be 'fun'. At your grade Western Front Direct is a must-do I'd say.

Tradwise, Fly Me to the Moon is nice at VS. Might be HVS. The top is quite run out. On Jupiter and Mars is E1 and nice. There's a couple of E2s as well which are supposed to be good.

There is a nice topo here - http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Navigation_Quarry_-_Cilfynydd

There might be some ravens nesting, but they might be gone by now. Not sure. They were there last year, but not sure if they're there this year. Details on the RAD.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=978
Ian Bell - on 30 Apr 2014
Thanks for the info, sounds like there is plenty to go at and shall make sure i bring my trad rack.
tommccluskey - on 02 May 2014
In reply to Ian Bell:
Navigation is much better than Bargoed - a nicer place and better climbing and rock. It doesn't really seep apart from the odd crack and corner and dries really fast, the left hand side can be a bit wet after rain but i'd be surprised if it wasn't all dry by the weekend. There are a few silly run outs on the easier bits of the sport routes there but on the whole nothing too bad. As already mentioned Fly me to the moon is good, but the ravens were still there at the start of April so could be best to avoid it. On Jupiter and Mars is great, the only route there that it's really worth having half ropes for. (you can just about get away without though) The owl and the antelope and Let me play amongst the stars are both good e2s (although Let me play amongst the stars seemed very soft)

Western Front is the best route there and well worth doing, the crack can seep just above the roof but it's still doable (i didn't find it made much difference anyway) and it will dry whilst you're there if its a sunny day. The other sport routes around that area (Relaxed Ladybird, Great Expectations, Eastern Bloc etc.) are all worthwhile too.

Bargoed is OK, quite a few pleasant routes in the mid 6s but nothing particularly stands out. The right hand side dries reasonably fast (i.e. routes to the right of the arete) and Lyddite is very good at 7a+, but very thin and quite hard to work out past the second bolt.

Have fun!

Tom
Post edited at 01:59
mattrm - on 02 May 2014
In reply to tommccluskey:

> As already mentioned Fly me to the moon is good, but the ravens were still there at the start of April so could be best to avoid it.

I wasn't sure if they were there or not at the moment. Good to have it confirmed. So yes, in that case, follow what it says on the RAD, but there's plenty to go at even once you've discounted the routes with the raven's nest on it.
Ian Bell - on 02 May 2014
Thanks for the advice both, going to be in the area for all 3 days of the bank holiday weekend so will check them both out.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Ian Bell - on 07 May 2014
In case anyone else is interested my thoughts were;

Bargoed - climbing was OK but the place wasn't great, quite a lot of broken glass / trash etc.

Navigation - as per responses from people above a much nicer setting. Tried Western Front Direct which was indeed an excellent route. Bolting is fine on that one but worth bringing some gear for some of the other bolted routes.

We also climbed at Taff Wells West slabs which were good and checked out Taff Wells main which looked quite impressive.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.