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Easier crags in Portland?

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 BarrySW19 15 May 2014
I'm off on a trip to Portland in a few weeks and have been looking through the guidebooks - it looks like a bit of a >F7a fest there - I'm more of a 6b level climber indoors.

Does anyone have recommendations for crags there with plenty of climbing in the F4 - F6a grades. Battleship Buttress looks like one possibility, any others?
 dale1968 15 May 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:

Blacknor south
 spenser 15 May 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:

Last year we went to fallen/ diamond slab area and Blacknor far south, Chris went to the cuttings as well, all of which had a decent amount of stuff to go at sub 6a. For fallen slab you'll want a 60m rope, the other 2 can be done with a 50 I think. It would be worth checking which bits got landslid a few months ago as well.
 betathief 15 May 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:

the block and the veranda have plenty of easy routes but short in battleship area.

Cheyne wears area: godnor far north has some longer climb all across the grades your looking for.
 DerwentDiluted 15 May 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:

There's loads! I'm a sub 6b punter and have been visiting Portland for about 6yrs and I'm not done yet. Checkout Adam Perretts gallery for some excellent topos of recently developed craglets. Not everything is of great quality but there's plenty for a week or two. Best bit IMHO? Blacknor Boulders, Cheyne Wrares and discover your own bouldering round the beach huts at Portland bill.
 ChrisBrooke 15 May 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:

Godnor North has some nice lower grade routes too.
 Climber_Bill 15 May 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:
A search on Rockfax, for just Portland, using the database search tool returns 334 routes between 4 and 6a+.

That increases to 544 when the grade is increased to 6b+.

Might be enough for the weekend.

Rich.
Post edited at 09:25
OP BarrySW19 15 May 2014
In reply to spenser: "Last year we went to fallen/ diamond slab ..."

Thanks Spenser - are you heading down to Portland for this one (Zaheer's trip)?


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