/ Best guidebook for Chamonix alps

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Charley17 - on 16 May 2014
Im looking for a guidebook with many low grades routes around the Chamonix valley. Going to be based in Argentiere and the only transport we have is the buses/hitching. Was looking at the Mont Blanc Massiff: Selected climbs guidebooks but can't seem to decipher which covers the area better
Big Steve - on 16 May 2014
In reply to Charley17: You should be able to use the buses and trains up and down the valley, there are plenty of good single and multi pitch routes there, easily enough for a couple of trips. Theres a small guidebook called Crag climbs in Chamonix which I think is the most up to date, although i may be wrong there and there is an older green guidebook which I cannot remember the name of offhand. If you want to go a little higher, the Michel Piola Aguilles Rouges guides are good, you can get a cable car up to them.

Charley17 - on 16 May 2014
In reply to Big Steve:

Sorry I didn't specify this, I'm after an alpine guidebook, have done some alpine climbing before but not in the Chamonix area
JohnV - on 16 May 2014
In reply to Charley17:

The Mont Blanc Range by Jean-Louis Laroche is great for the classic snow, ice and mixed alpine routes.

There is also a '6a+ max' rock climbing guidebook detailing classics up to that grade across the massif. I've searched google but can't seem to find the title or author, perhaps it is French language only... You'll be able to find either in a tabac or outdoor shop in Chamonix.
Karl Wooffindin - on 16 May 2014
In reply to Charley17:

Gus Morton has wrote a few pieces containing good routes at low / medium grades.

d508934 - on 16 May 2014
In reply to Charley17:

this was a classic a few years ago:


worth getting most up to date copy you can, think there was a few reprints as some esaier routes went out of condition
Steve Kempley - on 20 May 2014
In reply to Charley17:

You can access Gus Morton's list at www.alpine-club.org.uk/funalps/
Click on Happy Alpine to get a list of 191 routes up to TD-
When you open the pdf files, click on the routes, you'll get the route description on Camp to Camp.

Buses are really good in the valley - if you plan to use the Grand Montets lift in Argentiere it opens from 28th June.

Have a good time!
Richard Wheeldon - on 20 May 2014
In reply to Charley17:


this is a new edition this year and all the routes are in the F - AD+ range; most good climbing shops should have this for sale / in stock...
thomaspomfrett on 21 May 2014
rinch - on 21 May 2014
In reply to Charley17:

I agree with thomaspomfrett, Snow, Ice and Mixed are really good. Nice clear annotated photos and more routes than you could do in a lifetime

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