UKC

Hi,

I was just wandering if this place is worth heading to from London. I like the Wintour's Leap and climb there usually once or twice a year as its so easy for us Londoners to get to. But was wondering if Ban y gor was a decent place for the occasional days bolt clipping.
The main questions are.......

a) Is there enough there for non superheroes (ie 6s not 7s)?
b) Is it a nice place to climb (NOT like some old quarries etc)?
c) is the rock stable enough not to fall into the "Adventure Climbing" category.

Basically, is it any good?

Thanks

In reply to Julesthe1st:

a) Yes.
b) Yes unless you don't like trees.
c) Yes. unquarried rock.

In reply to Julesthe1st:

a) yes, there was a big push recently to bolt some easier routes, a lot of the bolts are new and in really good condition. Plenty to do for the 5-6 climbers.
b) yes, nice and cool on a hot day and sheltered on a breeze day.
c) It's sport climbing so yes.

The first route you will see as you get there is 'A Little Stiff'ner', definitely jump on that, although maybe not as your first route of the day.

If you're looking for trad though, i'd stick to Wintours or Shorn cliff

Thanks guys. Think I'll give it a bash. Its only a couple of hours away from the big smoke so nothing to lose. I've always thought the Wye valley was a beautiful place to climb anyway.

In reply to Julesthe1st:

Easily combined with Wintour's (you can access both from the Lancaut Lane parking). Try Muddy Waters 6a and Heady Days 6b+ on the main cliff, nearer the parking Lotus Wing & Join the Union Jack are also good 6s.
It's an underrated venue, worth packing some insect repellent if you go.

In reply to The Ivanator:

I'd definitely second the comment on insect repellent. I don't know where they hide or when they bite me, but virtually every time I go something munches on my ankles! Do wonder if it is in the lush grass/veggie bits on the walk in.

Other thing to note is that some of the grading seems a bit all over the place.

Good Friday Agreement is very good indeed, as is the now fully bolted Always the Rain which had some lovely moves on it, Both 6c.

Definitely sounds worth a visit. I get eaten by every mozzie and midge that flies so I'll definitely be packing the repellent. Cheers for the route recommendations too.

In reply to Julesthe1st:

Be careful of dislodgable blocks onto your belayer, a few people I know have had close calls whilst belaying there.