UKC

Thinking about going to High Rocks on Sunday for the first time. I heard that most routes are not bolted at the top (unlike at, say, Harrisons) and I'll need to use trees for anchors. Is this true? If so, what is the min number of slings to take?

Also, sounds like High Rocks has more in the higher grades. Is there enough easier stuff to keep climbers happy for a day who are climbing French 5-6a? (I want to get in some bouldering too, which is not so good at Harrisons)

In reply to yulquen:

You would be much better of with a length of static rope and a steel krab. 10m would allow you to setup a good section of the routes but even then a second rope to equalise is also useful. I carry 10m and 20m lengths for the belays which allows doubling up (e.g. on smaller trees if needed)

There are easier routes there, but you are right that High Rocks is better in the 5c and above range. Its £10 each for the entry - If that puts you off, Eridge is a great alternative and has a spread of easier routes instead.

In reply to yulquen:
Generally you want a length of static rope for sandstone crags without bolts. I normally take 10 - 15 metres, you'll be able to do climbs with less than this but you'll be more limited the less length you take.

In reply to yulquen:
By the way there is no way most of high rocks will be in acceptable condition for climbing sunday. Even if is doesn't rain Saturday I think it's going to be too damp but you may get lucky. Most of it faces North and is very slow drying.

If it doesn't rain saturday as it is forecast to do so ( check here http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/radar/ saturday evening )then Harrisons and Eridge MAY be OK in the faster drying places. Otherwise you'd be best going to Bowles which is the fastest drying southern sandstone crag and is still likely to be quite damp in many places if the forecast is right http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/tunbridge-wells-kent#?t... .

Sandstone is quite fragile when damp and easily damaged, so please don't climb damp climbs.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks for the North-facing advice. Will head for Bowles then and pray for some nice dry rock

In reply to yulquen:



In my chastened experience, not really. The routes tend to be around UK 5C and upwards which is pretty much french 6b route grade and up.

In reply to GrahamD:

There's always the attractively-graded 'Boa-Constrictor Chimney' "4b" ... Which I think is the most undergraded route I ever did in all my climbing. V strenuous, awkward and quirky 5c, imho.

In reply to GrahamD:

But, my goodness, the routes are good (when it's bone dry). The best routes, and there are dozens, are easily as good technically as anything on gritstone.

In reply to yulquen:


If you're going to splash £10 a head (or £50, or whatever it is now) to climb you probably want to wait for it to dry out first. Better to spend some of that money on the extra petrol to get your group to the Peak District and do some real climbing, then give the remainder to a MRT instead of some private individual's wallet

In reply to trouserburp:

Agree, but from where I live Peak is 3.5 hours each way and SS is only 1. Aside from being time-constrained the petrol cost balances out entrance fee.