UKC

California climbing

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OlgaP 08 Jun 2014
Hi!
I'm going to Cali in September and wish to spend 2-3 days sport-climbing (up to 6b). Appreciate any advices on climbing destinations, US websites, clubs etc.

Thank you!

 Firestarter 08 Jun 2014
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/northern-california/104554751

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/southern-california/104554745

These are from mountainproject.com, US equivalent of UKC. Hope it's useful. Should be able to hook up with other climbers on there too.

OlgaP 08 Jun 2014
Thanks Firestarter, will check it out
 seankenny 08 Jun 2014
In reply to OlgaP:

California is 800 miles long. You may need to be a bit more specific about your plans if you want useful information.
 Simon_hosking 08 Jun 2014
In reply to OlgaP:

We had a road trip last March / April across California climbing, started in Joshua Tree and then had a few days in Yosemite after most of the party had headed home. We mainly climbed trad but did look at the sport possibilities before we went but nothing jumped out compared to the trad climbing. I am sure there is loads of great sport climbing, if you were thinking of sport because everyone always talks about the huge routes in Yosemite there is a huge amount of single pitch trad routes.

The other thing we learnt when we were there was that in the US top roping a route to push your grade is really normal and you see people doing it on lots of routes. With the caveat that people would often stop top roping if another party arrived wanting to lead the route.

Message me back if you want to know anymore
OlgaP 08 Jun 2014
In reply to seankenny:
The thing is my route might depend on what I'm advised
Now thinking more specofically about Yosemite.
OlgaP 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Simon_hosking:

Thank you Simon! I haven't yet done trad hence looking for sport routes
I just figured out how the US scale compares to the French one and going to study the newly bought guide.
Which part of Yosemite were you? How difficult were the routes there?
Thanks!
In reply to OlgaP:
Is it a climbing trip with sightseeing or a sightseeing trip with a bit of climbing? 2-3 days seems pretty short!

If its a climbing trip for only three, days, maybe better to go to Red Rocks in Nevada.
Post edited at 23:39
Removed User 12 Jun 2014
In reply to OlgaP:

It might be a tad warm in September. Take yer sunscreen.
pasbury 12 Jun 2014
In reply to OlgaP:

If it's pure sport you're after I can specifically recommend this route near Bishop if you're in that area:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=50223

there are other sport climbing areas nearby. Beware though bolts != sport in the US!

Otherwise there's Clark Canyon and Owens River Gorge though the latter will probably be hotter that a pub lasagne.
In reply to pasbury:

The road up to Clark Canyon was pretty rough when I went up there a month ago. I made it in my rav4 (2wd) but barely, and I don't really worry too much about scraping it.

Owens River Gorge is alright if you climb from sunrise until maybe 9AM. =D

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