UKC

Climbing shoes for lead (Sport and Indoor)

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tristanity 13 Jun 2014
Hey guys,

I'm needing some opinions here. I currently have a pair of Evolv Defy and a pair of La Sportiva Solution. My Sportiva is still new and I use it for indoor bouldering and I am still not willing to use it outdoors at the moment. My Defy on the other has been broken in and thus has become loose. I find it hard to smear and step on really tiny footholds when doing outdoors.

I'm planning to get a new pair specifically for lead climbing, leaving my Solutions dedicated solely to bouldering. What I have in mind is La Sportiva Cobra or Miura(lace). But I'm open to any other brands too and any good mid range shoes as well (Evolv or Mad Rock or 5.10). Any suggestions?
 Jon Stewart 13 Jun 2014
In reply to tristanity:
Not a lot of point in asking for recommendations - the best shoes are the ones that fit your feet.

I think you're over-thinking it. It's highly unlikely that your climbing is limited by your shoes. Personally I usually have a 'sunday best' pair that are new/tight/uncomfortable for bouldering or short trad routes; a 'pottering' pair that are pretty worn out and comfy for soloing (don't have to take them off as I potter round he crag); maybe a 'trad' pair that are somewhere in between (OK for a long pitch, get slipped off at belays). And something crap/cheap/worn out for indoors.

Often these are the same brand, just different ages!
Post edited at 14:04
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