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I've just been watching a film on Youtube of an ascension of Mont Blanc by the Innomininata and wondered if there are many other bivvies like the Eccles ? I've stayed overnight in the Canzio and wouldn't mind doing so again, but sadly the machine is on the decline !
In reply to Pyreneenemec:
There are loads of similar bivis in Italy if you mean similar in form. Similar in location is another matter but try the Balzola bivi on La Grivola or the Pol bivi near Gran Paradiso.
There are loads of similar bivis in Italy if you mean similar in form. Similar in location is another matter but try the Balzola bivi on La Grivola or the Pol bivi near Gran Paradiso.
In reply to Pyreneenemec:
Worth the effort in reaching it for the solitude!
Mario Jachia bivouac hut (3250m)
A tiny shelter in wood and metal, located on a little col between the Aiguille de L'Eveque and the Aiguille De Tronchey. Always open w/o warden, 8 places, blankets and some cooking equipment. Property of the Società delle Guide di Courmayeur, tel. + 39 165 842064, fax +39 165 842357. May be one of the least used huts of the entire massif - according to the guestbook, the average is 4 users per year! The location is a superb panoramic spot, but the access goes definitely into the “gruesome” classApproach (diff. AD, 7/8 h., 1600m):
Worth the effort in reaching it for the solitude!
Mario Jachia bivouac hut (3250m)
A tiny shelter in wood and metal, located on a little col between the Aiguille de L'Eveque and the Aiguille De Tronchey. Always open w/o warden, 8 places, blankets and some cooking equipment. Property of the Società delle Guide di Courmayeur, tel. + 39 165 842064, fax +39 165 842357. May be one of the least used huts of the entire massif - according to the guestbook, the average is 4 users per year! The location is a superb panoramic spot, but the access goes definitely into the “gruesome” classApproach (diff. AD, 7/8 h., 1600m):
In reply to Pyreneenemec:
I have often wanted to see this mysterious, remote and little visited cabin :
http://www.summitpost.org/bivacco-della-brenva/577841
I have often wanted to see this mysterious, remote and little visited cabin :
http://www.summitpost.org/bivacco-della-brenva/577841
In reply to Simon4:
You and Martin could compile a list of these bivvies. Then visit and tick them off instead of the 4000ers! Wonder which would be the harder... the 4000ers or the bivvies?
You and Martin could compile a list of these bivvies. Then visit and tick them off instead of the 4000ers! Wonder which would be the harder... the 4000ers or the bivvies?
In reply to Simon4:
Ah - a fellow Brenva hut enthusiast! I once got to about 2500m approaching this by myself but had to turn back at the crossing point of a stream that was thundering down from above, crossing a 2 foot wide ledge and then disappearing into oblivion below. The volume of water was such that I couldn't convince myself I wouldn't be swept away if I judged my jump wrongly.
Ah - a fellow Brenva hut enthusiast! I once got to about 2500m approaching this by myself but had to turn back at the crossing point of a stream that was thundering down from above, crossing a 2 foot wide ledge and then disappearing into oblivion below. The volume of water was such that I couldn't convince myself I wouldn't be swept away if I judged my jump wrongly.
Post edited at 12:05
In reply to jon:
Actually - well when I have a moment. For now, which hut has the longest approach from the valley or nearest manned location?
The Jachia above must be a candidate, any advance on 7hrs? How long to get to the one half way between the Matterhorn and Dent D'herens?
Actually - well when I have a moment. For now, which hut has the longest approach from the valley or nearest manned location?
The Jachia above must be a candidate, any advance on 7hrs? How long to get to the one half way between the Matterhorn and Dent D'herens?
In reply to MG:
The Rifugio Benedetti? That looks seriously hard to get to, double brownie points for anyone who has stayed there.
What the ****** is it for?
The Rifugio Benedetti? That looks seriously hard to get to, double brownie points for anyone who has stayed there.
What the ****** is it for?
In reply to Simon4:
That's the one. I think there are actually two on that ridge. Must be for the hordes doing the E ridge of Dent D'Herens.
That's the one. I think there are actually two on that ridge. Must be for the hordes doing the E ridge of Dent D'Herens.
In reply to MG:
According to Martin Moran, that is done from this little beauty :
http://www.rifugi-bivacchi.com/en/1758/bivacco-Novella-Giorgio-e-Renzo
> Must be for the hordes doing the E ridge of Dent D'Herens.
According to Martin Moran, that is done from this little beauty :
http://www.rifugi-bivacchi.com/en/1758/bivacco-Novella-Giorgio-e-Renzo
In reply to Simon4:
That's always intrigued me too - as to whether it even still exists. I'm not entirely convinced it does, by that photo. There seems to be something resembling a roof....
The other one that looks special is the Periades bivouac.
> I have often wanted to see this mysterious, remote and little visited cabin :
That's always intrigued me too - as to whether it even still exists. I'm not entirely convinced it does, by that photo. There seems to be something resembling a roof....
The other one that looks special is the Periades bivouac.
In reply to Simon4:
I have often wanted to see this mysterious, remote and little visited cabin :
http://www.summitpost.org/bivacco-della-brenva/577841
Was up that way on a solo mission a few years back, turned back due to not wanting to cross the last section of wet glacier just before the rock spur.
The "path" in is very indistinct to say the least, with very faint yellow way marks, but once in the basin, the way is obvious.
The stream that you have to cross lower down was fairly mellow that day, but could understand why it would cause worries in spate as the run out if swept away is certainly unforgiving.
A very wild remote area with very few vistors.
I have often wanted to see this mysterious, remote and little visited cabin :
http://www.summitpost.org/bivacco-della-brenva/577841
Was up that way on a solo mission a few years back, turned back due to not wanting to cross the last section of wet glacier just before the rock spur.
The "path" in is very indistinct to say the least, with very faint yellow way marks, but once in the basin, the way is obvious.
The stream that you have to cross lower down was fairly mellow that day, but could understand why it would cause worries in spate as the run out if swept away is certainly unforgiving.
A very wild remote area with very few vistors.
In reply to walts4:
Were you able to see the hut from where you got to? I asked Luca Signorelli about it a few years ago and he reckoned it was still there, in some form.
Were you able to see the hut from where you got to? I asked Luca Signorelli about it a few years ago and he reckoned it was still there, in some form.
In reply to MG:
Not sure, will send you a photo of the rib i think it was on, but couldnt make it out that day 2010
Not sure, will send you a photo of the rib i think it was on, but couldnt make it out that day 2010
In reply to pneame:
Apparently it still does, at least until 2010. Never heard of anybody staying in it, though.
> That's always intrigued me too - as to whether it even still exists. I'm not entirely convinced it does, by that photo. There seems to be something resembling a roof....
Apparently it still does, at least until 2010. Never heard of anybody staying in it, though.
In reply to MG:
iirc, the Mittelaletsch bivi took us about 7 hours to get to, Mike P having told us that when he'd attempted it he couldn't find a way across the glacier. About the same for the Oggione.
What gets done from the Brenva bivi?
> For now, which hut has the longest approach from the valley or nearest manned location?
iirc, the Mittelaletsch bivi took us about 7 hours to get to, Mike P having told us that when he'd attempted it he couldn't find a way across the glacier. About the same for the Oggione.
What gets done from the Brenva bivi?
In reply to Solaris:
Potentially Tour Ronde from the S, the Brenva face of M. Blanc and I guess the N Face of ABP. You should be careful asking such questions just now...
> What gets done from the Brenva bivi?
Potentially Tour Ronde from the S, the Brenva face of M. Blanc and I guess the N Face of ABP. You should be careful asking such questions just now...
In reply to Solaris:
That's probably about right
to get to, Mike P having told us that when he'd attempted it he couldn't find a way across the glacier.
When was that - I didn't have any problems descending coming through the glacier but that was 1999.
> iirc, the Mittelaletsch bivi took us about 7 hours
That's probably about right
to get to, Mike P having told us that when he'd attempted it he couldn't find a way across the glacier.
When was that - I didn't have any problems descending coming through the glacier but that was 1999.
In reply to walts4:
Unless you have my type of luck that is, and after enjoying the solitude for an hour you get a full ENSA aspirant contingent filling up the hut getting 2 years occupancy quota in a single night...
> (In reply to Pyreneenemec)
>
> Worth the effort in reaching it for the solitude!
>
> Mario Jachia bivouac hut (3250m)
>
> Worth the effort in reaching it for the solitude!
>
> Mario Jachia bivouac hut (3250m)
Unless you have my type of luck that is, and after enjoying the solitude for an hour you get a full ENSA aspirant contingent filling up the hut getting 2 years occupancy quota in a single night...
In reply to MG:
I don't know when Mike had that experience. We did it in ?2009. Felt a bit Himalayan once we'd started heading up the Mittelaletsch glacier, or at least, it did until we came across the storm-tossed ruins of the hut toilet's roof!
I don't know when Mike had that experience. We did it in ?2009. Felt a bit Himalayan once we'd started heading up the Mittelaletsch glacier, or at least, it did until we came across the storm-tossed ruins of the hut toilet's roof!
In reply to Mr Lopez:
They are bastards, aren't they? Don't you hate it when that happens.
> Unless you have my type of luck that is, and after enjoying the solitude for an hour you get a full ENSA aspirant contingent filling up the hut getting 2 years occupancy quota in a single night...
They are bastards, aren't they? Don't you hate it when that happens.
Post edited at 22:18
In reply to jon:
To be honest they did go to the effort of making the trek to a hut/route where they didn't expect to inconvenience anyone by filling it up. I think they were as surprised to find me there as i was of seeing them turn up.
It all got a bit ridiculous however, when while enjoying the solitude at the Canzio hut the following evening after completing the rote another ENSA aspirant contingent rocked up filling the hut... Grrrrrrr...
To be honest they did go to the effort of making the trek to a hut/route where they didn't expect to inconvenience anyone by filling it up. I think they were as surprised to find me there as i was of seeing them turn up.
It all got a bit ridiculous however, when while enjoying the solitude at the Canzio hut the following evening after completing the rote another ENSA aspirant contingent rocked up filling the hut... Grrrrrrr...
In reply to Alex Buisse:
Probably a great spot for a bit of peace and quiet, although perhaps not as useful as it once was - quote my ancient guidebook "A useful alternative starting point for the Brenva face routes"
Someone was there in 2010 -
http://www.refuges.info/point/382/cabane-non-gardee/Mont-Blanc/Bivouac-de-l...
and they used it for the Tour Ronde S Face-
http://cyrilpsyko.revolublog.com/tentative-a-la-tour-ronde-a1375801
Probably a great spot for a bit of peace and quiet, although perhaps not as useful as it once was - quote my ancient guidebook "A useful alternative starting point for the Brenva face routes"
Someone was there in 2010 -
http://www.refuges.info/point/382/cabane-non-gardee/Mont-Blanc/Bivouac-de-l...
and they used it for the Tour Ronde S Face-
http://cyrilpsyko.revolublog.com/tentative-a-la-tour-ronde-a1375801
Post edited at 22:42
In reply to MG:
In theory there are also several rock routes on the reverse side of the Aiguille De La Brenva and the Pere Eternel.
Saturday I was on the opposite side on the Brenva moraine (the one below the Peuterey ridge) and I've decided next week I'll pay another visit to the Brenva hut - keep you posted on the conditions
> Potentially Tour Ronde from the S, the Brenva face of M. Blanc and I guess the N Face of ABP. You should be careful asking such questions just now...
In theory there are also several rock routes on the reverse side of the Aiguille De La Brenva and the Pere Eternel.
Saturday I was on the opposite side on the Brenva moraine (the one below the Peuterey ridge) and I've decided next week I'll pay another visit to the Brenva hut - keep you posted on the conditions
In reply to Pyreneenemec:
I can add to my tally of remote, indeed very remote bivi huts having visited the Aar bivi 7 rugged hours walk in a week ago, which also provided one of the more bizarre and incredible mountain experiences (literally incredible - no-one believes it happened attributing the incident to isolation and male wish fulfilment fantasy).
I made my way along increasingly rugged and remote terrain, getting later in the day, weather looking ever more threatening as I got into more obviously mountainous situatio,. I became very aware that I needed to find the hut, it being a LONG way back and quite late.
I finally saw it, climbed up the final 100m, just as I reached it, the door was opened by a beautiful smiling woman - and an aggressively barking dog.
Honest it DID happen!
I can add to my tally of remote, indeed very remote bivi huts having visited the Aar bivi 7 rugged hours walk in a week ago, which also provided one of the more bizarre and incredible mountain experiences (literally incredible - no-one believes it happened attributing the incident to isolation and male wish fulfilment fantasy).
I made my way along increasingly rugged and remote terrain, getting later in the day, weather looking ever more threatening as I got into more obviously mountainous situatio,. I became very aware that I needed to find the hut, it being a LONG way back and quite late.
I finally saw it, climbed up the final 100m, just as I reached it, the door was opened by a beautiful smiling woman - and an aggressively barking dog.
Honest it DID happen!
Post edited at 08:30
In reply to Simon4:
Yes, yes very good but did you climb the Lauteraarhorn?
> I finally saw it, climbed up the final 100m, just as I reached it, the door was opened by a beautiful smiling woman
Yes, yes very good but did you climb the Lauteraarhorn?
In reply to Pyreneenemec:
Give it time, young fellow, give it time!
I am intending to go back there next week with M H, weather permitting, which at the moment it is showing no sings of doing.
Give it time, young fellow, give it time!
I am intending to go back there next week with M H, weather permitting, which at the moment it is showing no sings of doing.
In reply to Simon4:
That will probably be the lovely wife of the incredibly hospitable guardian. Were their two boys there as well?? Had a great couple of days there in July last year, after coming down from the Lauteraarhorn we were welcomed back to the hut with 'I have made too much crème brulee - would you like some....?'. The guardian pointed out precisely the line we should take with pinpoint accuracy the previous evening - and he was absolutely right.
> I finally saw it, climbed up the final 100m, just as I reached it, the door was opened by a beautiful smiling woman
That will probably be the lovely wife of the incredibly hospitable guardian. Were their two boys there as well?? Had a great couple of days there in July last year, after coming down from the Lauteraarhorn we were welcomed back to the hut with 'I have made too much crème brulee - would you like some....?'. The guardian pointed out precisely the line we should take with pinpoint accuracy the previous evening - and he was absolutely right.
In reply to MG:
I think we can say he didn't, Martin...
> I finally saw it, climbed up the final 100m, just as I reached it, the door was opened by a beautiful smiling woman
> Yes, yes very good but did you climb the Lauteraarhorn?
I think we can say he didn't, Martin...
In reply to jon:
I'm feeling harassed now! Bullied!
I might climb the Barre does Ecrins on Sunday ( again). Is that good enough?
I'm feeling harassed now! Bullied!
I might climb the Barre does Ecrins on Sunday ( again). Is that good enough?
In reply to jon:
Not at all surprised they didn't do it, I went up to 3000m just at the base of the couloir and the snow was still soft, hadn't consolidated much at all. If there is a good weather slot later next week, it may be on.
Not at all surprised they didn't do it, I went up to 3000m just at the base of the couloir and the snow was still soft, hadn't consolidated much at all. If there is a good weather slot later next week, it may be on.
In reply to chris bedford:
Yes it was, fantasies aside she was not alone, in fact her husband, Marcus, was there,along with 4 other Swiss (and the dog!). They were up for their annual hut Spring cleaning and were incredibly welcoming even feeding me so I didn't have to cook. They did carefully explain who was married to who (2 blokes, 4 women), to which I responded by saying that it was very useful to know who it was safe to make an indecent proposal to, and who not. Cue collapse with hysterical Swiss laughter!
Still very bizarre in those initial few moments though.
Yes it was, fantasies aside she was not alone, in fact her husband, Marcus, was there,along with 4 other Swiss (and the dog!). They were up for their annual hut Spring cleaning and were incredibly welcoming even feeding me so I didn't have to cook. They did carefully explain who was married to who (2 blokes, 4 women), to which I responded by saying that it was very useful to know who it was safe to make an indecent proposal to, and who not. Cue collapse with hysterical Swiss laughter!
Still very bizarre in those initial few moments though.
In reply to MG:
How does one get there?(starting point,etc). I will be in Courmayeur for the last 2 weeks of July and plan on visiting a few of these "lost" huts in my first days there so as to try get back my fitness which was taken away by all the beer the football WC and its deception(1x7)required...
Thanks
> (In reply to Simon4) Ah - a fellow Brenva hut enthusiast!
How does one get there?(starting point,etc). I will be in Courmayeur for the last 2 weeks of July and plan on visiting a few of these "lost" huts in my first days there so as to try get back my fitness which was taken away by all the beer the football WC and its deception(1x7)required...
Thanks
In reply to cariva:
It was a while ago and I don't have a map to hand so take this with a pinch of salt.
Start from the Autostrada(!) a couple of zags below the tunnel entrance. There is a track that leads towards the Brenva chalets. These are marked on the map but totally ruined. Once at them, the path become very faint but keep going in the same line until you get to a valley running perpendicular to your direction, formed by the moraine of the Brenva glacier (at this point you may or may not meet a Carabinieri training his dog who will clearly dismiss you as bonkers when you state your destination). Turn right up the valley and after a "bit" cross the stream in its bed (cairn) and ascend the very, very steep grass/wooded slope opposite (occasional cairns and faint paint flashes). At the top of the woods trend increasingly leftwards over rock slabs until you get to a point where you have to jump a stream above a cliff (see above). This is as far as I got but the way is increasingly obvious.
It was a while ago and I don't have a map to hand so take this with a pinch of salt.
Start from the Autostrada(!) a couple of zags below the tunnel entrance. There is a track that leads towards the Brenva chalets. These are marked on the map but totally ruined. Once at them, the path become very faint but keep going in the same line until you get to a valley running perpendicular to your direction, formed by the moraine of the Brenva glacier (at this point you may or may not meet a Carabinieri training his dog who will clearly dismiss you as bonkers when you state your destination). Turn right up the valley and after a "bit" cross the stream in its bed (cairn) and ascend the very, very steep grass/wooded slope opposite (occasional cairns and faint paint flashes). At the top of the woods trend increasingly leftwards over rock slabs until you get to a point where you have to jump a stream above a cliff (see above). This is as far as I got but the way is increasingly obvious.
In reply to cariva:
You can park & start from the tunnel parking, just jump over the fence & then follow the directions above, its very vague for the first hour or so.
Then the alternatives rabidly run out until it begins to be obvious & very faint splashes of yellow paint are evident.
Good luck
> How does one get there?(starting point,etc).
You can park & start from the tunnel parking, just jump over the fence & then follow the directions above, its very vague for the first hour or so.
Then the alternatives rabidly run out until it begins to be obvious & very faint splashes of yellow paint are evident.
Good luck
In reply to MG:
Right on, man! I will certainly take a look at it and hopefully the dog won't be there.
Thank you very much (also to walts4)!
Right on, man! I will certainly take a look at it and hopefully the dog won't be there.
Thank you very much (also to walts4)!
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