UKC

East-North-East Ridge Lenzspitze (Direct from Mischabel Hut)

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 glaramara 24 Jun 2014
Has anybody done this? Beta, is it worth taking some rock shoes? I see it has some fixed kit, any rock pro needed? Minimum rope length? Also, how steep is the 'final steep snow arete', (i realise this will vary a bit from season to season). I have the Moran book but the less gear I can get away with the better!
 richparry 24 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:

You don't need rock boots if you can climb severe in big boots. A single rope is fine. Top arete is about 45 or 50'.
Take a light rack. You'll need it for the tower near the top and for the traverse to the nadelhorn.
OP glaramara 24 Jun 2014
In reply to richparry:

'Bout severe huh. 10 nuts, 3 cams-ish? 50m rope? Could I get away with a 35m?
 richparry 24 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:

I can't remember exactly how long the abseils are. You might get away with 35m. I'd just take a thin single 50 or 60m.
 jon 24 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:
The crux of the ENE is the gendarme. It's a couple of steep pitches on OK rock. Certainly don't take rock shoes. The ridge connecting the Lenzspitze to the Nadelhorn isn't very hard but is much longer than you thnk it's going to be. I'm not sure that it's even severe... maybe a few short sections? Ive done the ENE once and the joining ridge three times and have always used a 35m rope. My normal rack for something like that would be three nuts, three quickdraws and a few slings. Take a few more if you want but don't burden yourself with unnecessary crap. It's a fabulous day out. On a personal note I'd say that the ENE is a FAR better route than plodding up the terminally boring ski slope to its right!

EDIT: I'm not aware of having abseiled anywhere on the connecting ridge or the ENE, though maybe there was a short one to get off the back of the gendarme... perhaps.
Post edited at 14:24
OP glaramara 24 Jun 2014
In reply to jon:

Thanks all. Yeh, I've never fancied these steep featureless icey walls for many reasons, one being their seriousness and 2 being their repetition. I'm keener on this route than the matterhorn, although I'll take both if i can!
 Simon4 29 Jun 2014
In reply to jon:

> On a personal note I'd say that the ENE is a FAR better route than plodding up the terminally boring ski slope to its righ

Don't say that Jon - I was thinking of plodding up the snow slope very soon! Its all my partner's fault, he wants to do a face like that, I want to climb the Lenzspitz.
 Simon4 29 Jun 2014
In reply to glaramara:
> I've never fancied these steep featureless icey walls for many reasons, one being their seriousness

If the truth be told - which obviously it never should be, or only when surrounded by a bodyguard of lies - they aren't that serious, if there is an easy way off, and you can get across the bergschrund. The connecting ridge is much more problematic, but Jon's comment reassures me.
Post edited at 23:26
 jon 29 Jun 2014
In reply to Simon4:

I know. I'm sorry!

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