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Alpine conditios/weather

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 Simon4 08 Jul 2014
Just a general view for anyone coming out, conditions and weather are in general BAD!

Weather systems are sweeping through more or less continuously (or there is a single massive system with occasional clear windows), there is lots of snow, mostly fresh, deep and unweathered off popular tracks and this seems very general in the Alps, Chamonix, Bernese Oberland, Zermatt, Ecrins.

We did manage to get up the Barre does Ecrins by one of the Couloirs (which is not a couloir), the other day, but the weather only just held.

Go east, young man (or woman), seems.the best (if not terribly helpful), advice at present.
 Null 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

The weather in the Dolomites is terrible right now and although improving next weekend it remains unsettled. We are still waiting for our usual big summer high pressure system but the outlook is not positive.

We might end up with a great Autumn season as sometimes happens (golden sunshine till December), or just a duff season, as also happens every (?) ten years or so.
OP Simon4 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Erstwhile:
That is depressing, I was thinking of looking at Monte Viso, but you suggest that even to the East of the main mountains conditions are not good.
Post edited at 09:46
 Pyreneenemec 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Pretty dismal in the Pyrénées, too !

Fresh snow above 2000m and even lower tomorrow.
 jon 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Hmmm, I'm just wondering whether to put a T shirt on today, or not...
OP Simon4 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Pyreneenemec:
> Pretty dismal in the Pyrénées, too !

> Fresh snow above 2000m and even lower tomorrow.

Global warming you know! To quote from the Isere forecast -

'The levels of fresh snow in the high mountains are remarkable for the time of year'. Might get the skis out,
Post edited at 10:08
OP Simon4 08 Jul 2014
In reply to jon:

Jon, if you are typing in your underwear, the world doesn't need to know.
 ralphio 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Very depressing. Driving down on friday for a long planned trip. Should have stuck with the peak district!
OP Simon4 08 Jul 2014
In reply to ralphio:

>. Should have stuck with the peak district!

But what have you done on hard ice covered by 4 inches of fresh snow?

 glaramara 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Endure chaps! I'm coming out in a week and have ordered some stable conditions. We've all been there before, it invariably comes good. Bit cold is better than too hot, yes? As long as there's not enough snow for major avalanche issues...
In reply to Simon4:

We've been in Cham for 10 days. Managed to get something done every day except today, although not necessarily what we wanted. Plenty of quick drying rock in Aiguilles Rouges if you get half a day. There are weather windows if you're prepared to walk up to a hut in the rain. Wouldn't want to be bivvying though!

Some Brits we spoke to had just abandoned their approach to Pointe Lachenal in waist deep snow. I would be very wary about avalanche prone routes.

Much better weather coming next week I think.
 Roberttaylor 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Richard Alderton:

Word. There is always something you can do.

At least, that's what I'm telling myself, as I come out in two weeks. Hopefully the snow will have turned into neve by then.
 kipman725 08 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Contamine Grisolle. Probably in even worse condition now...
OP Simon4 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Richard Alderton:

> We've been in Cham for 10 days. Managed to get something done every day except today, although not necessarily what we wanted.

Pretty good effort considering conditions.

> Much better weather coming next week I think.

Yes but Chamonix metro ALWAYS has 'beau temp et chaud' in 2 or 3 days. 2 or 4 days in the future that is.
 DalesClimber 09 Jul 2014
Currently in Grindelwald with no prospect of any good weather in the near future!

Thinking of trying Saas tomorrow (poss. Hohlaubgrat). Has anyone got any info on current conditions there?

OP Simon4 09 Jul 2014
In reply to DalesClimber:
I would have thought a great deal of fresh, unconsolidated snow. On the Barre does Ecrins as soon as you were off the beaten path, it was wallowijg time.

Rock routes, especially high ones, are likely to need several days of good weather.
Post edited at 09:18
In reply to Simon4:

> Yes but Chamonix metro ALWAYS has 'beau temp et chaud' in 2 or 3 days. 2 or 4 days in the future that is.

Like free beer tomorrow!

Well, my patience is being tested. Forecast for the weekend has deteriorated. Any suggestions for wet weather activities in Cham gratefully received!

So far the list includes

Run up to Lac Blanc in the rain
Some punterish rafting activity
Climbing at Les Gaillands in big boots
Turning our apartment into a crevasse and practising rescue techniques
Watching the Tour de France in Le Pub
Unnecessary shopping
Bothering estate agents
Watching the climbing coupe du monde and Chamonix film festival
 ralphio 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Can anyone recommend wet weather options in Zermatt or Saas Fee?!
In reply to Simon4:

To all those trapped in Chamonix. Get hold of the Plaisir West guidebook and head for Morzine. There is some great cragging there and also an amazing route called the Morzinous. The conditions might just be better if you drop down a bit - they certainly were in March/April.

Good Luck

Charlie
 walts4 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Richard Alderton:

Head either South, North, East or West after consulting various weather sites via the internet for an area that offers the best chance of some stable dry weather.

Other than the above, start running the balcon trails to optimise your fitness for when the weather does eventually break sometime in September!!!

Good luck...
 James FR 09 Jul 2014
In reply to walts4:

The weather systems are so huge, I don't think anywhere (within reason) is going to have dry weather for the next few days...
In reply to James FR:

> The weather systems are so huge, I don't think anywhere (within reason) is going to have dry weather for the next few days...

Yep, that's the problem. Maybe the south of France or Finale.
 James FR 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Richard Alderton:

Weather in Marseille looks good! (but windy): http://www.meteo-marseille.com/webcams.html Calanques maybe?
OP Simon4 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Richard Alderton:
Traditionally it was jam yesterday and jam tomorrow, never jam today, but the idea is the same. There was a scene in a Peter Cook, Dudle Moore film about hell -

'We are in hell. It is 5 minutes to opening time'
'That doesn't sound too bad, you can have a drink in 5 minutes - why is that hellish?"
'No, you don't understand - its always 5 minutes to opening time'
Post edited at 16:36
OP Simon4 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Richard Alderton:

> So far the list includes

> Unnecessary shopping

I bought some new crampons

> Bothering estate agents

Always worth while, provided you wind them up good and proper.

 DalesClimber 09 Jul 2014
I bought some brightly coloured approach shoes yesterday. The only problem is, if the bad weather continues I may go bankrupt...

Gear isn't cheap in Switzerland!
Removed User 09 Jul 2014
In reply to DalesClimber:

New harness and some carabiners for me today. This weather is expensive.
 jon 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

In the end I did put a T shirt on as it's cooled down to about 24°. Great afternoon cragging in the shade...
 Fiona Reid 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Removed Userchamdog:
> New harness and some carabiners for me today. This weather is expensive.

Yup indeed it is, we both bought waterproof gloves today - stupidly didn't take them out with as as we'd planned on going summer rock climbing!

Snow down to about 2300m this morning in the Dolomites - has receded a fair bit by this evening but there's drifts of 1-2ft at 2900m and the higher up ferratas are quite sporting!
Post edited at 20:03
 jcw 09 Jul 2014
In reply to Richard Alderton:
For total desperation there is a cliff down at St. Gervais somewhere around the back of the park that remains dry because of the overhangs. Might provide you some sport and only a short walk so nothing lost
 Rick Graham 09 Jul 2014
In reply to jcw:

Crag is called Le Fayet , near the "Parc Thermal" . Its in the Logbooks on here, amazing resource. Not exactly total desperation, I quite like it.
 LakesWinter 10 Jul 2014
In reply to Richard Alderton:

Ticino?
 jcw 10 Jul 2014
In reply to Rick Graham:

Yeah, that's because you can do the routes!. I was totally pumped after one.
 jon 10 Jul 2014
In reply to jcw:

> I was totally pumped after one.

That's the idea, John!
 Wainers44 10 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

So we couldnt stand the rain in Les Carroz any more. Ok loads of driving but it was much drier in Cormayeur, warm by Aosta and boiling in Turin.

Such a shame to feel that we had to go so far, but couldnt stand the thought of another cold wet day. Apart from endless eating (and bl**dy shopping) how are any other alps visitors staying sane this week??
 walts4 10 Jul 2014
In reply to Wainers44:

> So we couldnt stand the rain in Les Carroz any more. Ok loads of driving but it was much drier in Cormayeur, warm by Aosta and boiling in Turin.

Been the story of the year to date, head South & continue & not stop until the sun shines.
3 1/2 hours driving & your at the coast, its a no brainer..

 Wainers44 10 Jul 2014
In reply to walts4:

We had the warning of things to come on monday. Caught the telecabin up from Flaine on monday morning in the sunshine. By the afternoon got back to the topstation to find it shut due to the storms. Everyone taken back down eventually by very bumpy 4x4 ride, which was a bit of fun., it hasn't really stopped raining since!!
 Fiona Reid 12 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Am guessing that things improved a bit given the lack posts for 2 days!
Pretty decent till 2 or 3pm in the Dolomites today. Tomorrow looks showery and another day of rain on Monday but hopefully better than the last week.

It's still awfully cold though.
In reply to Fiona Reid:
Did Aug du Tour south flank today. Good track all the way but snow showers and inside a cloud all day. Off track is 4in soft snow at 2800m a foot at 3300m, and according to campsite owner 80cm at Midi. Raining in argentiere now so more fresh in morning?
Post edited at 20:24
OP Simon4 13 Jul 2014
In reply to Fiona Reid:
> Am guessing that things improved a bit given the lack posts for 2 days!

Well we did have a glorious day for climbing Monte Viso. Grim by the next morning in the Italian mountains though.

> Pretty decent till 2 or 3pm in the Dolomites today. Tomorrow looks showery and another day of rain on Monday but hopefully better than the last week.


Yes, it is supposedly improving at last. Any high mountain areas have an awful lot of snow to shift/consolidate. You may be luckier in the Dolomites, beijg lower.
Post edited at 20:29
 Jasonic 14 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

East Ridge?
OP Simon4 16 Jul 2014
In reply to Jasonic:

Not entirely sure, we had the most minimal information about routes. From the one of the many Quintino Sella refuges, South to a lake then West over a col. Down to aminimal glacier, up to a face/ridge and so to the summit.

Magnificent morning with good, crisp cramponing snow at last, fantastic view in all directions.

A fine pyramidal peak that dominates the Italian plains, a fair bit harder with lots of snow than we expected.
 jon 16 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Not even 4000m... Pah!
 JohnnyW 18 Jul 2014
In reply to Simon4:

Bump!

Setting off tomorrow, via Carcassone to do some family stuff. Will be in Saastal for Friday next.

Plleeeaase tell me things are firming up?
graham F 18 Jul 2014
In reply to JohnnyW:

Things are firming up...lots. Great snow conditions around Arolla (Tsa/Pigne/Cheilon) and too hot at times on the Jegihorn rock and tracks on all the usual Weismiess/Lagginhorn and Saas Fee peaks.
In reply to graham F:

Did rochefort arete yesterday. Good firm track but softening by midday.

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