UKC

Happy Thursday,

I'm going to be in Symonds Yat, end of Aug' beginning of Sep', and I'm looking for some top tips on the area; with a view to getting some decent routes ticked while I'm there.

My guess is that regularly climbed routes = cleanish routes, with some popular appeal. So, up to now, the strategy has been to look at the graded list, in the current guide, before matching it up with the most ticked routes on UKC; in the hope of finding some clean, good quality lines to go at.

So far, so good. I now have a list of 24 (mostly classic) routes; 11 at HVS, 5 at E1, 6 at E2, 1 at E3 and 1 at E4. If you know the place, you can probably guess what's on the list already!

But it would also be great to have a few less travelled but high quality routes to go at so, if anyone fancies sharing the names of their favourite quiet classics, at the Yat, I'd love to hear about them

Cheers,

M

In reply to Climbster:

Not done this one, but it looks fun, Flight Deck (HVS). There's a VS on the otherside, which is also nice, which I have done. It's probably on your list, but Orange Wall definitely deserves three stars, it's an excellent route.

For E2, Never Trust a Smiling Cat is good. Also you can wimp out onto easy routes if the crux is too hard. And the crux is right at the top of the route, which I always like. Only seconded that one tho. But again, I enjoyed it.

In reply to mattrm:

Flight Deck
Orange Wall
Smiling Cat

All sound good and all on the list

In reply to Climbster:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=119528

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=89726

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=72006

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=109889

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=33066

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=104603

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=107467

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=49338

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=49332

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=47320

In reply to The Pylon King:

Cheers Mr K,

I have a couple of these on the list aready (English Country Garden and Phizzog), but there are definately a few new ones that look interesting; Finality, in particular, looks like a good line

M

In reply to Climbster:

Not sure what's on your list but here are some must dos.
Pams pride vs. Orange wall hvs. White hart 2 hvs. The trip E1. Stress arete E1. The ankh E2. The penny dropped E2. Never trust a smiling cat E2.
That should keep u busy for a a visit or 2.
Enjoy Luke.

In reply to Climbster:

The Beak and Free Radical stand out for me, used to be my local crag - a long time ago

In reply to luke glaister:

Nice one Luke, all good, and all on the list, except for Pams Pride; but only because I'm hoping to start at HVS and work up from there

M

In reply to Dave Ferguson:

Cheers Dave, I think I've got Free Radical on the list, but The Beak doesn't sound familiar. I don't have my list with me, at the mo', so I'll have to check it later; but I will definitely give it a go if it's still in condition.

M

In reply to Climbster:

A couple more that no-one's mentioned so far - My Noble Son Seth is excellent (the Pylon King's modesty obviously prevented him, being his route...) and I really liked Ego Warrior - the finish is chossy but easy, but the first two-thirds is great.

If you're in the area for a few days and you like micro-routes in quiet locations, then I'd recommend popping across the river one day and visiting Dennis Grove - really attractive little buttresses of clean, sunny compact rock, with a lovely walk-in and location. I've done La Biche, Ron's Rocket and Taylor Made and they're all good (especially the first two), while Mrs McGregor's Crack and Strangely Brown look very appealing.

Rick

In reply to Rick Sewards:
Thanks Rick,

V. Happy with the list so far
From matching the CC graded list to the UKC's most ticked, I get:

HVS
Hole in the Wall
English Country Garden
Matchstick Man
Flight Deck
Orange Wall
Scooby Doo
Phizzog
Funky Dung
Red Rose Speedway
Presbytarian Toothpick
The Russian

E1
Stress Arete
Oomigooli Groove
Strathdon
Agoraphobia
The Trip

E2
My Noble Son Seth
Dead Churchills
The Penny Dropped
Never Trust a Smiling Cat
The Ankh
Free Radical

E3
The Wasteland

E4
Piggy Malone

All the above have 20 or more ticks on UKC and feature in the CC graded list.

The remainder come courtesy of the UKC mini-massive:

Charge Transfer HVS
Autumn's Dawn HVS
Fly on the Wall HVS
White Hart 2 HVS

Ego Warrior E1

Edward the First E2
The Beak E2

Finality E3
Yongona E3

If I have any skin left after this lot I will definitely check Dennis Grove too.

Thanks All,

Matt

In reply to Climbster:

You should add Yongona to that list. Piggy Malone is utterly, utterly magnificent. A finer pitch would be hard to find.