In reply to The Grist:
We stayed at the campsite directly below Sergent (turn L immediately at the top of the big tunnel and it is just down on the R). Basic but OK and very convenient for the main crag (Sergent). I am told that a lot of the locals stay further up the valley beyond Ceresole.
Stock up well before you leave the plains. Very little is available in the upper valley and even in the lower valley there isn't much (e.g. only small puncture type Gaz cylinders and no other type of gas at all although fresh stuff such as bread and milk is available in Ceresole). It is about an hour each way going all the way down the valley to the nearest hypermarket.
I thought the pretty well all the main routes we did were very good. These included: Cochise, Apparizione del Cristo Verde, Nicchia della Torture, Incastromania, Fessura della Disperazione (big cojones or 2 Friend 6s useful, up to 4 would be nice). The sport routes on Droide were good for a damp day. Orecchio del Pachyderma was really good but we had to aid the 6c and 6c+ pitches when we continued up Tempi Moderni. Everyone we spoke to had to aid the 6c+ on Miroir Doc so we kept away from that.
The climbing up the Piantonetto side valley also looked excellent (e.g. Impressioni di Settembre on Scoglio di Mroz) but was still a bit too snowy when we were there. We picked up a local guidebook to this in a bookshop in Ceresole (books there despite limited everyday essentials! The drive up to the dam in this side valley is worthwhile as is the drive up the pass at the top of the main valley.
Don't know about the guidebook.
Post edited at 20:48
