UKC

Hello all

I have been climbing indoors for a couple of years now and would really like to start climbing outdoors. For several reasons I only really want to sport climb on bolted routes.

These reasons being: I feel it is safer for a beginner if the route is well-bolted, as opposed to me learning how to place gear.

It is cheaper: I am under the impression all I really need is quick draws (which I have already), a rope, and some slings and screw-gates for setting up top ropes.

I'm living in Derby so would like to try this type of climbing in the Peak District as it's not too far away.

Would you advise me that the best course of action would be to go on an outdoor climbing course, would this type of course teach me how to set-up top ropes outdoors etc? I have been leading indoors for quite a while so I understand the principles of this part, just not whatever magic happens at the top to let me come down with all my kit!

Also, why do I get the impression that what I am aiming to do is so frowned upon? I feel like it's the safest most accessible form of outdoor climbing, but there is very little information on this type of climbing in guide books or on the internet. Is this because most British climbers prefer trad-climbing and dislike the idea of sport-climbing?

Thanks for any input!

Elliot

In reply to elliot.baker:

Everybody has to start somewhere so well done for taking the first steps. Anyhow you may want to reconsider how "safe" sport climbing is given:
- it possibly involves more falling esp. if working a project
- sport belay devices such as gri-gris can be dangerous in the hands of the uninitiated
- getting threading the anchors wrong can be potentially quite serious
I don't mean to put you off but just put things into perspective. If you manage to climb trad with somebody who has gear and share the odd lead you will be getting pretty valuable experience that help you become a more well-rounded climber as opposed to a wall-bred sport rat.

In reply to elliot.baker:

There are less sport crags than trad crags in the UK, hence there are fewer guidebooks. But yes, many prefer trad climbing.

I'm sure there must be articles around online about lowering off? You'd usually do this rather than set up a top rope.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

I've been in Sydney for the last 11 months, I'm going back to the UK next month. Coincidence....

Regarding your comments, I understand those risks apply which is why I'd like to be taught by someone who knows what they're doing before hand.

I still feel like placing your own gear is inherently more risky than using bolts (assuming you can recognize damaged/weak/old bolts that is).

In reply to elliot.baker:

That is an assumption!

I would recommend just going sport climbing with an experienced friend who knows what s/he is doing. I don't think it's necessary to attend a course if the only skill you're lacking is lowering off from a route.

In reply to elliot.baker:




Cool....hope you saw a bit of the place.

I agree placing your own gear is more risky...it's why I wear a helmet for trad but not sport. Preferencing sport might be a good idea in the short term but in the UK at least it could be a bit limiting, since there is so much good trad there.

My trad apprenticeship if you could call it that was seconding easy routes for most of 1986 then taking on leading the year after that so it was a pretty comfortable intro to placing gear and building belays.

PS - I've heard good things about the PYB learn to lead courses

PPS - if you fill out a profile you might improve your response :p

In reply to elliot.baker:

I've been trad climbing for many years but haven't been out in a long time, 2/3 years now and I have an itch that needs scratching. I have SPA and lots of instructing behind me. I know Derbyshire well. When you return to UK send me a message.

In reply to elliot.baker:


I guess another question would be what kind of grade you are climbing at? If you're a solid 6b lead climber indoors then you'll have no problems, if you struggle up a 4 or 5 on a top rope then you'll be quite limited in terms of routes that you'll be able to climb in terms of outdoor bolted routes. Trad, or top/bottom roping trad routes would open a massive amount of climbing to you. I would certainly recommend getting a clip stick (beta stick). Stops the danger of falling before the first couple of bolts to a degree, which is pretty much the most dangerous part.

Also you seem intent on leading, which is cool, sport lead is where I started outdoor! But have you considered seconding for someone, or taking a course learning to set up top ropes, (which can be done over many routes, bolted or not) and getting used to real rock without the safety concern of leading, bolted or otherwise?

Another quick note about the comment someone made about wearing a helmet for trad and not sport from the safe falling aspect..... For a beginner it should be added that whatever type of climbing you are doing, wear a helmet for belaying! Very small rocks knocked of by the climber travelling towards you very fast can cause a lot of damage!

Also no-one should frown upon the route into climbing you take, or what type of climbing you want to do! As long as you are doing it safely and learning how to reduce risk from reliable sources then go for it!

In reply to elliot.baker:

Hi Elliot,

I'm down the road in Leicester and prefer leading sport to trad. If you fancy meeting up at the wall in Derby, Alter Rock, when you get over here drop me a line. I've got a friend who I do a fair bit of bolted stuff with who lives in Burton so we occasionally go to Derby if the weather craps out in the Peak.