UKC

Paklenica and Split: Advice regarding kit

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Kid Spatula 24 Jul 2014
Off to Paklenica soon, and have some minorish questions.

For Paklenica what's the bolting like in general? I understand it's fine on the single pitch stuff but how about the multipitch? Would I need to take a full rack or is a sport rack sufficient? Flying Ryanair so this is important

Heading down to Split for a few days as well for some tourist action, drinking and DWS. Is there any crags around there worth bothering with bar Marjan and the DWS? Probably won't have time to get to Hvar
 Ron Kenyon 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Kid Spatula:

I would suggest take a full rack. One is not sure what to expect - usually the bolting is alright but worth having some extra gear as back up - especially on Anica Kuk.

We were there last month - amongst others we did not take any extra gear for Karabore which indicates it is just bolts but would have like a bit extra - though I did miss a bolt at one.

The one pitch routes are well bolted - but Paklenica is more than this.

Have a look at the Croatia guide by Boris Cujic which details the crags round Split

Good climbing shop at Paklenica - and great motorway link with Split.
OP Kid Spatula 24 Jul 2014
In reply to Ron Kenyon:

How as Karabore? That looks ace!
 Ron Kenyon 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Kid Spatula:

Karabone - quite a varied route - with its moments.

You definitely must do Domzalski - good photo point on the way down.

We were only there this time for 3 days - waiting for change in weather in Montenegro !

Loads of great routes - remember one big star in the guide is a better route than two smaller stars.

Ron


iepsje 25 Jul 2014
I think it really depends on what you want to do and how comfertable you are with long(er) bolt distances. Most single pitches are bolted fine, but some can have quiet long bolt distances and placing a nut or two can be nice.
For most multipitches I would advice to take at least some gear with you if the route is stated as fully bolted (bolts can be spacy).
There are as well a lot of multipitches that require a full rack..
If you do not take your full rack with you and are in doubt wether your rack is sufficient enough for a certain route, just ask the rescue team at the entrance. They know all the ins and outs of the routes and are really helpful. (They also watch all climbers with binoculars during their multipitch )
OP Kid Spatula 25 Jul 2014
In reply to Kid Spatula:

Cheers both, greatly appreciated. I'll take a shitload of cams and nuts.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...