UKC

Cleeve Hill

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roochop 02 Aug 2014
Hi

Thinking of heading out to Cleeve Hill tomorrow. Myself and my climbing partner are relativley new to the outdoor experience, so do not have a huge knowledge of spots. Hoping that someone can give us a bit of info.

Is it a suitable top roping area?

Is it a family friendly ish spot? as I would like for my daughter to come along.

In the guide book it states that there is limited parking, but does not show an alternative. Do you know of a good place?

Thanks in advance
 GridNorth 02 Aug 2014
In reply to roochop:

I can see Castle Rock from my bedroom window. It's not worth travelling any distance to visit but if you live in Chelteham it's quite handy for an hour or so.

Don't get too excited it's not very high and every winter takes it's toll. It's very polished and loose in places especially on the exits to the routes. Despite that some of the routes pack a punch for their meagre length and a couple of the severe crack routes are actually quite good. There are stakes at the top. Parking can be difficult. It's possible to drive up to just beneath it but in recent years people have had problems doing this. The alternative parking is the golf course but it's a fair walk from there

What ever you do, do not venture onto the crags away from Castle Rock, those marked as the Main Cliff in the guide, Even though the guidebook gives some routes stars, they are lethally loose and friable. I personally think encouraging anyone to climb on here is downright irresponsible. As long as the kids don't stand directly beneath the routes they should be fine.
roochop 02 Aug 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

Thanks for the info.

I live in Oxford, so we have to travel to climb outdoors whatever. Castle Rock is the nearest to us.

Is there anywhere else near by that you know of?

We did our first few days of outdoors a while ago at Symonds Yat,loved it, and want to get as many hours in this season as possible.

Thanks Again
 GridNorth 02 Aug 2014
In reply to roochop:

Cleeve Hill is very trivial compared to Symonds Yat, stick with the Yat. There is also Avon Gorge, Wintours Leap and of course the Peak District which is thoroughly recommended for the grit. One problem you will encounter is that limestone (Avon, Wintours etc.)does not as a general rule lend itself to easy climbs as it tends to be steep. Symonds Yat is an exception in that regard. Places like Stanage Edge are excellent for novices and only half an hour or so further to drive.
 jetstream 02 Aug 2014
In reply to roochop:

I also live in Oxford but go to Castle Rock when I stay with my in-laws just outside Cheltenham. The main Castle Rock crag is OK but I think it would be a bit dicey if you're a beginner - I've not climbed there with a rope but have done a bit of dodgy soloing. The low-grade problems are over very quickly and the good looking lines are all about E5. There are some boulder problems past the main crags (insert health warning about these here....) but probably not worth the trip.

To be honest if you're up for a good day out I'd set off an hour earlier and go to Stannage or the Yat.

roochop 02 Aug 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

Thank you again for the info. Avon was another one we were looking at.

Probably head for the yat then.

Cheers
roochop 02 Aug 2014
In reply to jetstream:

Cheers for the info, not upto the E5 standard by any means. Do you climb at Brookes at all? if so, any experience of the climbing clubs there?

Cheers
Joonsy 02 Aug 2014
In reply to roochop:

Hi, i don't know what the guidebok says about parking so i might be repeating books instructions, however if you turn off the B4632 road (next to a pub, which is marked as 'Hotel' on OS map) and drive along a dead-end lane called Rising Sun Lane for a short distance until you cross a cattle grid then then there is a designated parking area just on the left of the catte grid, the crag is a short easy walk along a driveable track to the right of that parking spot, i have been there a few times but only climbed it once and i didn't like it, steep and very polished and not much rock to go at, it's family friendly for a picnic and walk but as for actual climbing i'd go elsewhere, personally i don't think its very suitable for beginners, enjoy your day anyway whatever you decide. ATB.
 jetstream 02 Aug 2014
In reply to roochop:

> Cheers for the info, not upto the E5 standard by any means.

Neither am I!

I've sent you an email.


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