UKC

Cascades National Park, WA, USA

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 MatthewV 02 Aug 2014
I'm going to the Cascades in Washington State in September. Anyone got good suggestions of venues / guidebooks for some gentle climbing we might do in a day from the Cascades Loop?

Thanks
 veteye 02 Aug 2014
In reply to MatthewV:

I would imagine that Fred Becky is your man,but it is mainly like the Alps needing a day to go up to camp and up from there.Then again I have only been twice and the second time was solely to practice crevasse rescue prior to going to Alaska.
I have just found another book-"selected climbs in the Cascades" by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield published by The Mountaineers.In that I see that Liberty Bell is close to the road and has 5.6 routes on it which take just a few hours.
 loose overhang 05 Aug 2014
In reply to MatthewV:

I agree that the spires near Washington Pass are your best option. Most climbs are within an hour from Highway 20. Some are classic.

Further south near Highway 2 you'll find the town of Index which has steep rock close to the road. Further east on Hwy 2 is Leavenworth. It is a faux Bavarian town and quite a tourist trap, but there is very good alpine rock nearby. The classic route, Outer Space (5.9) is about an hour or so from Leavenworth. Long day trips to other nearby peaks such as Dragon Tail and Colchuk, and even Mt Stuart are possible. Limited availability permits are required for camping there, but not required for day trips. You'll need to buy a pass or passes, depending on location.

There is also the Mountain Loop which is a road into the western section of the north central Cascades. It goes through the town of Darrington and Barlow Pass. From it, moderate height peaks with many rock climbs are reachable from several trails. But you'll spend most of the day walking rather than climbing.

The Beckey guides and the two Selected Climbs books are available at REI I think. SummitPost should have most areas covered.

If you are staying in hotels/motels then Leavenworth and Winthrop are good centers. Camping near Leavenworth is up Icicle Creek and for Washington Pass, Lone Fir campground.

I live near there and expect to be going into the mountains frequently in September. If you would like more info, or even meet up you may email me.

Andrew

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