UKC

So Moff and I are off again to one of our fave areas next week and having climbed most of the sub HVS in Bosigran and Sennen areas and with a pretty clear tick list for what we havent yet done on Lands End, Chair Ladder and Gunnards Head (plus having already visited the odd obscurity like John Wayne, St Loy and Porthgwarra) what are the knowledgable tips from UKC cognissi for other must visit places for compulsive lower grade explorers.

In reply to Offwidth:

St Loy an obscurity?

Anyway, are we to include HVS, or is it strictly VS and below?

If the former, Zennor Head has a lovely HVS, Rosebuds in June (IIRC); Vessacks West has a very nice HVS, Saskia, with an 'interesting' start - and Axis at VS.

If the latter, Cribba Head has Kernyck at HS; then there's Sensible Shoes, which is everybody's go-to esoterica at VS.

There's masses of stuff, really. Just give the grade limit.

Martin

In reply to maisie:

Feel free to put some HVS tips in outside the crags we mentioned.

In reply to Offwidth:

Have you been to Tater Du & done Martell Slab?

In reply to Hat Dude:

Nope.. but was eyeing that up in the guide a fwe hours back

In reply to Offwidth:

David Hope has a finished manuscript to The Lizard if that's of any interest, and I can send you his email if required. Masses to do there at the grade. There's also a photo copy of his m/s on the notice board at the CH, with a request for any comments etc.

Porthguarnon East is a lovely spot, a three tiered crag best approached from above with the best routes on the lower tier, a very soft E1, a couple of HVS's, and pleasant lower grades. Spent a very relaxing day there a week or two back with a few friends and everyone had a great time.

Trewavas is certainly worth a visit, especially if the tides aren't helpful. Fox Promontory has a fine jamming/layback corner at bottom end HVS on the front face and a pleasant VS just to its right. Finally; have you climbed Hopeless Slab at the seaward tip of Bosi? Well worth seeking out at VS 4c, and although tidal, you can ab in if the waves aren't too big.

In reply to Offwidth:

All good suggestions. Martell Slab at Tater Du is great, and if you are there, you're not far from Tregiffian, which gets you back on the granite. I liked the VS there called Gravity Slab, or something? Cribba Head (Kernyck HS, KHarder, VS 4c) is lovely, as is Porthguarnon. Trewavas is non-tidal and always get a mention(try the VS 5a with Des Hannigan in the picture in the old CC guide, and the one around the corner (avalanche? VS 5a? that Des himself describes as finishing up a "beetling crack", in the same guide. Or, instead, do what you fancy.) Have you done Helluva Slab at Hella Point, just around from Porthgwarra? If not, do it - the position at the bottom, down by the sea, is beautiful and the scramble there is fun.

In reply to Offwidth:
Good suggestions above.

Would second Martell Slab at Tater Du especially.

Iron Bells at Porthguarnon, Hairy Cornflake at Carn Guthenbras, gaol themed routes at Botallack Head Zawn etc, etc. All great stuff that you might not have done.

Iain's suggestion of The Lizard is a good one, there's a surprising amount of low grade stuff, on good rock, carrying multiple stars. The stuff at The Horse springs to mind and yes if David will give you the script, be sure to check out Predennack Head.

I should really mention Trewavas. If you go, please give Foundation and Empire a go, details can be found on the UKC page. It really is very good and desrves more traffic - if I do say so myself.

Lastly, I would definitely think about doing the HVS Waltzing Matilda on Bosigran Ridge. It's quite new but one of the best routes I've done Cornwall (certainly the best HVS). Some say E1, but it's a lot easier than the E1 Gallipoli (on the same wall). Details on UKC and in supplement.

Cheers,
Tom

In reply to Iain Peters:

That would be great Iain, busman's holidays always good fun!

In reply to Offwidth:
Potempkin at Kynance cove is my only dabble into Cornish esoteria. A huge crumbly slab with, if memory serves, a single nut at about halfway. Goes at HVS 4b I think and is described in an old definitive guide. Or you could just enjoy Kynance cove and not worry about dying!

Just checked my old 1988 guide, it gets VS4c and I've put a skull and crossbones next to it, a symbol I use very sparingly.

In reply to DerwentDiluted:

Thanks everyone, UKC at its best.... very useful.

In reply to Offwidth:

...and please book another busman's next year for the Culm and N Cornwall when we might have another manuscript ready for you!!!

In reply to Offwidth:

We are going down in a week and a half. I would second a visit to Hella Point which is easy to pass if you are head down for Chairladder. Helluva Slab is very nice and as mbh says, the descent is interesting in itself. Some nice mid-grade routes on Porthgwarra Buttress opposite also. We needed a break from the big cliffs last year and visited Halldrine Cove which is on the back of Bosigran. Lower grade single pitch routes but we thought it a good venue to get back into the Cornish experience or to settle the nerves after a few days of the mjain deal. Enjoy.

In reply to Mike Conlon:
Cheers but climbed everything we knew of at Haldrine including the new routes and some poor unlisted stuff on the left: great little low grade venue.