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dirtyfly20 Aug 2014
Hi all,
I'm looking for some very rigid climbing shoes (I'm developing a problem in my toe joint and should't flex it climbing) .
I recall seeing climbing shoes with metal bars inside or very rigid insoles. do you jnow any that fits these characteristics ?
Fairly sure EBs were not stiffened with a plate although there were stiffer than modern shoes. The stiffest I can remember were RDs which I think were designed for limestone - they may well have had a steel shank
Your best bet is probably something like the Boreal Ballet or Ace. http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm
Not many shops seem to stock them these days, they seem to assume all climbers now have banana shaped feet, but if you hunt around on the net you should find some stockists even if you have to get them from abroad.
In reply to dirtyfly: My son has a 'walking on his toes' issue and his physio (nhs) is having carbon fibre insoles made for him which are super stiff. Maybe something like this might be more appropriate combined with a decent fitting shoe. you can then keep the thing for ever and swap shoes. It might just work.
Ive got some five ten anasazi greens (not verde) that are pretty old that I think have carbon fibre inserts in them. I cant bend them at all. Size 8 so probably too snall for you.
dirtyfly21 Aug 2014
Hi, boreal seems to have the zephyr wich they claim to be very stiff, anyone knows these ?
Are they the older model? The previous two models were REALLY stiff, I really liked them for easyish all day trad routes as they could be fitted quite loosely and the soles were supportive enough to allow them to edge still.. However the latest model is only quite stiff.
In reply to dirtyfly: As a side note avoid the Scarpa thunder they start off stiff but whatever material stiffens the sole softens up quite quickly and they end up VERY flexible.
Most modern rock shoes are poorly designed and not rigid enough - most models are cr_p. Boreal Ballets were some of the best. 5.10 Hueco are the best you can get now (£50 at Needlesports). If anyone knows a better stiff boot let me know.
DC
Kamet Joshua Tree boots had plastic stiffening insoles, but it's 20 years or so since they were made. I still have a pair for slate etc., as they're much better for edging than modern shoes. Stiiffest current models (that I know of) are Boreal Ballet Gold.
Years ago some of us used to make insoles out of ordinary aluminum cookie sheets. They'd break after a lot of flexing (or perhaps I should say after resisting a lot of flexing) but they were cheap too.
La Sportiva; TC pro, Boreal; Fires' and Ballet Gold , are good stiff shoes.
i still have a new ( never worn) pair of old Fires and an old pair in need of a resole.
great for slate.
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