UKC

Considering Sicily at the moment

Climb Europe lists these different areas
http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingItaly/Sicily.html

I'd never realised the island is so big

Anyone got any opinions on which area is best for a group of varying levels including some who won't climb that much

Thanks

In reply to Carless:

San Vito

In reply to Carless:

San Vito

In reply to blackreaver:

San Vito.

In reply to Carless:

San Vito.

In reply to Carless:

Etna

No on second thoughts, San Vito

Is there any bouldering around SanVito?

In reply to all

Thanks - so I'll take that as a vague preference for San Vito area then?

What's there to do around there for non-climbers?

In reply to Carless:


Eat Sicilian ricotta. They will need to do little else.

Did anyone mention San Vito?

For non climbers in San Vito there is the beach, one of Sicily's finest. If you want something more cultural drive up to Erice or visit Palermo and Monreale (in which case bring no cash, valuables, etc.). That's about it.

Beach/nature wise, the Riserva dello Zingaro definitely deserves a visit and it's round the corner from S. Vito.

If you camp at El Bahira you'll be able to walk to loads of different crags/sectors (the most popular ones), good for any level of climbing. Plenty of accommodation options in town.

Top notch climbing (IMO, that is) that requires some driving is to be found at Parco Cerriolo (no approach), Never Sleeping Wall (no approach), Crown of Aragon (some walking), Cinema Paradiso (some more walking) and Lost World (some walking/scrambling on the way back... you'll need to abseil in and check the road is good enough to drive to the top of the cliff). Cattedrale nel Deserto (very little walking) is also really good BUT check the wind is NOT coming from the sea and in any case after about 3 PM the wall usually gets seriously greasy...

80 m rope is recommended. Grades all over the place in Versante Sud's guidebook. October can still be very hot, tough is climbing's high season since you'll be able to enjoy the beach AND the climbing. In fact, different aspects will allow you to climb regardless with some flexibility. However, not much is dry in the rain

Best of luck!

Nic

In reply to Carless:
San Vito is popular.... Watch out for the bonelli's eagles

In reply to Nicola Ciancaglini:

Do you recommend 80m rope for St Vito?

In reply to kylo-342:

I do since some really cool routes (e.g. at Never Sleeping Wall, at Lost World, at Cattedrale nel Deserto) go up to 40 m (and beyond...). But in fact there is so much climbing that anyone would be able to climb with a 70 m rope too. In Salinella, for instance, I think 70 m may suffice for pretty much anything.

In reply to kylo-342:

I got away with a 60m rope, however there were a few routes that required a 70m rope at El Bahira

In reply to Carless:

Zingaro is cool - beach coves are lovely and snorkelling is not bad either.

In reply to Carless:

Just come back from San Vito. Fab! Although a tad hot! Took 60 m rope. Obviously the odd route was not do-able but 95% of the routes are less than 30m. As there are hundreds to go at near san vito alone you'll still have a great climbing holiday with a 60m if that's what you've already got.

In reply to climberchristy:
Are there any nice beaches *very* close to a crag (i.e. 5 mins walk or so)?

So that my wife & children can play on the beach whilst I nip off for a quick route or two.

In reply to kylo-342:

Depends on your nipping ability really Pizzo Monaco isn´t that far from the end of the town beach but the routes are a bit long, 4 to 8 pitches. The other way from the town end of the beach it´s maybe 15 mins stroll to Cala Mancina. There´s a small beach at the start of the campsite road so directly below Seagull/Far Side, maybe 2 mins walk.
Otherwise there´s a kids playground of sorts and two pools in the campsite which is where I dumped mine.

In reply to jimtitt:

Thanks for that.

On a separate note, I am inspired by your route "Via Fratelli Titt" but will have to negotiate that one with the wife! Looks like a great line.

In reply to kylo-342:

A 60m will be fine for your first ten visits! WE drilled all the routes with a 60m in mind, even the longer routes usually have a re-belay so you can use a 60m.

In reply to kylo-342:

Yeh lovely beach area just under the Torre isulidda section. From main road from Castelluzo to San Vito you take a little side road (on left) to the El Bahira camping. This road goes just above a lovely little beachy cove with sheltered swimming or paddling for kids. it's a pebbly beach but it's absolutely beautiful. views are amazing. Just above it (2 mins walk) is all the bolted climbing you could wish for.