UKC

Rope

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Michael MacArthur 11 Sep 2014
Has anyone got any recommendations on the best all round single rope?
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

I thought all ropes were round?
In reply to Michael MacArthur: I don't. I gave up believing in the usefulness of an 'all round' rope a decade ago.

I now buy different ropes for different purposes. To my mind there is just too much variation in cost, performance and durability for one rope to be useful in all scenarios I would use it in.
 BarrySW19 12 Sep 2014
> In reply to Michael MacArthur:

> Has anyone got any recommendations on the best all round single rope?

Must be the Mammut Galaxy, otherwise I bought the wrong rope.
Michael MacArthur 12 Sep 2014
In reply to higherclimbingwales:

I was asked for that really didn't i!!! Lol
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

Probably the Beal Joker 9.1 - thick enough to use on the occasional redpoint, light enough as a scrambling *just in case* rope, and can come dry treated so will be great in winter.

Not as durable as a 10.5mm, but if I had to have just one rope in my car for a round the world trip? Sure.
Michael MacArthur 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael MacArthur:
what is redpoint?
 john morrissey 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

Get down to decathlon. Beal Edlinger II. £100 for a 70m rope. Cant go wrong. Had 2 now they are brilliant as long as you are not after a really light rope.
 The Norris 12 Sep 2014
In reply to john morrissey:

Except its probably about 40m too long to be convenient for indoor climbing!
 Merlin 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

After extensive research I just bought one of these http://www.rockrun.com/rock-climbing/climbing-ropes/edelweiss-performance-u...

What I would say is; it's probably not going to stand up to regular wall/sport climbing use involving shed loads of falls. Go 10mm for that sort of malarky as it'll last far longer (thankfully I have an old bit of 30m 10mm for that).
 Craigyboy13 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

if you climb trad, with out a doubt get half ropes. if you sport climb and can't afford both then get a single, at least you can use a single for everything.
Michael MacArthur 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

i do a bit of everything thats why i am going to get a singal and need it to withstand a bit of abuse because my wife is not the best.lol.

what does the uiaa fall rateing mean on the rope? if it has a 9 fall rateing that does not mean it will only last 9 falls does it??
 Merlin 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

Tripple rated rope(s) is worth it if you're on a budget, as you can effectively cover more uses with less rope.
 Johnsulli 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

The fall rating is how many factor 1.77 falls it will take - that's a huge fall. All the basics of rope at this link: http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=3e5f37f1-f997-40e...
 EddInaBox 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Merlin:

But triple rated ropes typically have a lower ratio of sheath to core, so depending on the usage you could well end up replacing your rope more often, a lower initial outlay but significantly higher ongoing costs.
 EddInaBox 12 Sep 2014
In reply to Michael MacArthur:

On its own the number of falls a rope is rated to isn't all that useful in determining how safe it is (read the link Johnsulli posted above) but there is a general correlation between that figure and a rope's longevity. The strength of a rope comes from both the core and the sheath but in simplistic terms the core provides the majority of the strength whilst the sheath acts to protect the core from abrasion and sharp edges.

The thicker the sheath the better a rope copes with everyday wear, thin singles (and triple rated ropes) need a strong core to pass the single rope drop tests, but to keep them thin and light they typically have less sheath.

A big fat single rated to take a large number of falls will typically last well because it has a lot of material in the sheath, although the usual disclaimer applies, that any rope may need to be retired after minimal use, possibly just one fall if it gets damaged. Something like the Beal Top Gun II is 10.5mm and rated at 11 falls, or the 10.2mm Mammut Supersafe Evo is rated at 11-12 falls. You can get 11mm ropes rated at 16 or more falls, the sort of thing that is used by climbing walls because thinner ropes would need replacing too frequently. Fat ropes will have a high ratio of sheath to core, but the primary penalty with fat ropes is weight, although they will also be stiffer.

General advice if you want a rope that will last a while (especially if you're working it hard at an indoor wall by falling on it regularly and lowering on it) is to go for at least 10mm, and if you get a rope that is longer than you need you will be able to cut a few metres off the ends when they start to get fuzzy and tired, and still have a useful length left.
 Merlin 13 Sep 2014
In reply to EddInaBox:

That's possibly true? I'll see how mine wears. But the saving is not having to buy a third rope (£100 - £180 lets say) and you're only likely to need to replace one at a time (the one which gets used as a single on its own probably) - I still think it's worthwhile if you're on a budget. I'm not on a budget, so will still own three ropes, but I like the idea of taking a pair of halfs on holiday to the alps and being able to use it confidently as a single on easier routes/moving together etc.
 BnB 14 Sep 2014
In reply to Merlin:

But you can use a half for moving together or on easy pitches as a single. When a half catches you on a "proper" climb, it is usually just one strand that does the catching. Better that both halves have the same diameter so they work better in assisted braking devices and that both minimise weight. A 60m 8mm half is half a kilogram lighter than a 9mm triple.
 Merlin 15 Sep 2014
In reply to BnB:

Yes, I've done this a lot in the Alps, but always been concerned with a half ropes ability to stand up to rockfall etc.

I'd imagine most UK climbers getting out one or two weekends a month wouldn't find the extra kilo (I'd be surprised if it's that much, most halfs at 8.4 are around 44 - 47gpm, with the exception of Beal Ice Lines at 39gpm. And a triple rated 9mm is commonly as low as 52gpm. So over 60m that's a max of 480g on average). Are there many assisted breaking devices that take halfs for belaying a lead climber? If you mean using a guide plate to belay a second, I wouldn't see the difference in diameter having that much effect - besides, it's not really that necessary.
 BnB 15 Sep 2014
In reply to Merlin:

> I'd imagine most UK climbers getting out one or two weekends a month wouldn't find the extra kilo (I'd be surprised if it's that much, most halfs at 8.4 are around 44 - 47gpm, with the exception of Beal Ice Lines at 39gpm. And a triple rated 9mm is commonly as low as 52gpm. So over 60m that's a max of 480g on average). Are there many assisted breaking devices that take halfs for belaying a lead climber? If you mean using a guide plate to belay a second, I wouldn't see the difference in diameter having that much effect - besides, it's not really that necessary.

Indeed there are: Megajul, Alpine Up etc. Any difference in diameter is significant when the braking assistance relies on the rope strands being pinched by the belay carabiner. If one strand is fatter then the thinner one escapes compression and so isn't held effectively. This is in normal belay mode, though applies to guide mode as well.

There is approx 9g/m between a Mammut Phoenix and a triple rope, so yes, about 400g - 600g per rope depending on length and type. Summer, I wouldn't worry about 500g, winter, I'm counting the gs.

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