UKC

Fitness/gym routine for unfit new climber

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
j3nesis 02 Oct 2014
Hello all, new climber here! I climbed once when I was a teenager (sadly a long time ago!!) in one of those whole-day 'taster' courses at an indoor wall in south Wales. The course, while only a day, included both actually climbing myself and sitting at the bottom with the harness on holding the rope for someone else climbing. There was a big abseil wall too which was brilliantly fun to do. I really enjoyed the day and always wanted to do it again, but life got in the way, until now.

Recently I decided to do SOMETHING to get fit and was delighted to find that my workplace's gym has a 9m indoor wall, so of course I've signed up for the intro course and hope to go to regular sessions with a view to passing the 'solo exam'. Alas, I am no longer the fit young teen I once was and at present I do zero exercise in my everyday life, have a sedentary desk job and no experience with how to work out/lift weights/do anything useful. I get the feeling that climbing is going to be quite a shock to my flabby self so naturally I'd like to incorporate climbing into some kind of fitness routine. I do hill walking sporadically (Cadair Idris most recently) and have a fair amount of stamina for long-distance hiking, but I can't run/jog/do aerobics to save my life.

What sort of exercises are good for climbing and how can these fit into a general fitness regime? What happens if I, say, do a gym routine and then use the climbing wall straight away - will this damage me? How often should I work out if I climb once a week, and how long should a 'routine' last? Should I lift weights or do something else or both to increase my raw strength - or is this even necessary? Are things like yoga and pilates helpful? (I hate group classes but will grit my teeth and bear it if they really are useful!)

I would be very grateful if anyone can point me in the direction of a workout creator - or just give me some tips for my own! - with a view to "climbing fitness". If it helps to narrow it down:

- I have unlimited access to a fairly well-appointed gym with the standard gym equipment (there is a pool but I can only just barely swim)
- I can only use the climbing wall during the supervised session, which runs once a week
- I can't jog/exercise outside, everything must be gym-based, or can be done at home with little to no equipment (I rent a tiny flat so I can't fit chin-bars or buy big dumbbell racks!)

Any and all advice gratefully received!
 Robbiobaby 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

It's great you are getting into climbing again! You have lots of questions, I will try and answer a few.

First thing is maybe ask whether they can make you a program, most gyms will and you can tell them what your goals are - for instance climbing and fitness and they will help.

Core workouts (plank, pushups, cobra, dish) are good which Yoga would help though isnt the most efficient, look up a core routine on google. Also pull ups are good, most can't perform even one but some gyms have assisted pull up bars where most of your weight is lifted.

Otherwise losing weight will help a lot but just poodling along on a tread mill isn't much good. High intensity intervals or fartleck (not sure how its spelled) training is required. It is best to talk to an instructor at the gym about this.

Really, to get better at climbing you need to climb more but with only limited time this is what I suggest.

By all means climb after a gym session, its probably the best time. Most people don't warm up enough before climbing so a gym session would be beneficial. Do take into account that you dont want to be really worn out as this is when you get injured. Perhap to half a gym session either side of your climbing session.
 ChrisBrooke 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

Sounds like you're after a big 'lifestyle' change, incorporating climbing. If you'd like climbing to be the focus of your performance I'd suggest doing pretty much all of the things you mention, starting slowly and carefully and trying to avoid overuse and injury. General conditioning in the gym, with a focus on weight loss will be useful. The elliptical cross trainer could be good for your cardio if the joints struggle with running. Yoga and or pilates for core strength and flexibility will also help. And climb! Climb for fun. Get to know your body and gravity. Don't climb when you're tired from the gym. If you're not tired you probably should have tried harder, if you are tired you won't get the most from your climbing session and are more likely to hurt yourself. Especially with making these new demands on your body. If you really enjoy the climbing, the motivation to do all the other things in support of the climbing should be there and you'll be on to a winner. Good luck and enjoy it!
 Andy Hardy 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:
1. Buy a pass for a climbing wall you can get to more than once per week (easy part)

2. Go more than once a week, and climb loads. (hard part)

3. Hook up with people at the wall or on here or your local club and go outside at weekends as often as possible (fun part).

Why must everything be gym based? In your boat I'd be cycling to work once or twice a week (if possible), using the gym for core stability stuff and bodyweight type exercises, but climbing indoors or out in preference to going to the gym.

Edit: a climbing wall at work! how cool is that?
Post edited at 17:05
 kathrync 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

> - I can only use the climbing wall during the supervised session, which runs once a week

Most people can pass the "solo" test within a couple of hours - all most walls require is that you can put on a harness and belay safely - they don't care at all about your actual climbing ability or lack thereof. I would do this as soon as you can and get to the wall more often - if you want to improve your climbing, the answer is to climb, particularly when you are starting out as at this point lack of technique holds you back far more than lack of fitness anyway. It might also be worth finding out if there is a wall with bouldering in your vicinity while you are trying to establish a base of partners.

I am intrigued as to why you can't exercise outside - you will probably find it more motivating than being in a gym (especially as you seem to enjoy being outside) and easier to mix up (a lot of my "runs" are actually geo-caching or orienteering, for example). I echo the advice someone else made about considering whether you could cycle (or walk, or run) to work.

Having said that, the advice above is all good, although I personally wouldn't climb straight after a gym session.

 Ciro 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

Climbing itself is great strength and conditioning training, and much more interesting than lifting weights, so I'd concentrate on passing your belay test and finding people to climb with for now - if you get into it and are doing a lot it can cause imbalances by overdeveloping certain muscles, so you just need to add some training for the antagonist muscles - for example strengthening the lower back to balance your abs and press-ups or bench presses to counter all the pulling.

Whilst cardio training isn't as central to climbing as most other sports there are plenty of other benefits to it if you're out of shape, so I'd still include some as much for the feel-good endorphins as anything else.

Running is much more technical than you might think, and doing it wrong can lead to injury, particularly if you're overweight so best to stick to low impact exercises like the bike and/or get swimming lessons - swimming is still one of the best total body workouts going and repeatedly stretching out on the front crawl stroke is a good antidote to the over tight climbers lats.

As you've been sedentary and desk based, you've probably got postural issues that may or may not predispose you to certain climbing related injuries (hunched forward shoulders for example, particularly on your mouse hand, that can lead to shoulder impingement under the loads climbing places) so yoga is probably a good idea from the point of view of correcting those, as well as teaching you how to stretch well after workouts.

A yoga class once a week is pretty useless though - if you want to see the benefits you should work it into your daily routine (even if it's only 20 minutes). Also might be worth getting a biomechanical assessment from a decent physio, to see if there's any particular imbalances that you need to work on.


Good luck and enjoy!
 nakedave 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

www.freeletics.com - tough but very rewarding
j3nesis 02 Oct 2014

Thank you to everyone for the helpful advice! I will certainly speak to the gym supervisors about developing a routine/programme with what I have in mind. Also excellent advice about the belay test, yes I can visit the wall solo at any time after I've passed the 'test' so I'll practice hard in the supervised sessions until I pass.

As to geography/climbing outside, I'm in London with no transport of my own so I can't get to the countryside for any "real" outdoor climbing. Cycling to work is impossible as I'm a very poor cyclist and would involve riding on busy A-roads under buses. Walking is possible and I'll look into it for part of the route (it would take over 2 hours to walk the whole way), so thank you for that advice. And finally, I refuse to jog or exercise outside because I hate being stared at and watched as I wobble and pant and dry-heave my way through a short jog!
Post edited at 18:54
 Alun 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:
> And finally, I refuse to jog or exercise outside because I hate being stared at and watched as I wobble and pant and dry-heave my way through a short jog!

The problem is theirs, not yours. Brian Moore tells a story in his autobiography, of a time when he was a schoolboy, laughing from the sidelines at somebody failing an exercise during rugby training.

The teacher stopped the session, marched over and said, "there are two types of people in the world, Moore, those who do, and those stand on the sidelines laughing. Which one are you?"

It shut Moore up, and obviously had an effect cos he went on to be one of England's most decorated and respected players.

Good for you for getting back into doing exercise. You'll receive loads of advice from everywhere in the world, but in my opinion it all boils down to this: you've got to try.
 bouldery bits 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

Climb as much as possible and whilst doing that get lighter! Power to weight all the way.
 Michael Gordon 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

>
> I refuse to jog or exercise outside because I hate being stared at and watched as I wobble and pant and dry-heave my way through a short jog!

Just think that you'll be getting fitter while they won't be!
 Si_G 02 Oct 2014
In reply to Alun:
I'm in the same boat.
I started walking using a couch to 5k plan, then a marathon training plan. Ended up power walking 30 miles.
Then I started running (at night) on a couch to 5k plan, then up to 10k, did the Great Manchester Run.
I can now kinda do pull ups, and handle easy outdoor climbs. I've done a few 6a's indoors.
I've just taken up cycling which is brilliant. The thrill of speed, technical sections, being in the right gear, and you can push yourself to the limit but still get home after.

If I was you I'd maybe look at swimming? Gyms bore me senseless, but the pull down machines are useful - I built up to pulling down my own body weight, really helped my climbing.
I'm still a chunk, but I've come a long way from rainbowing 2/3rds of a route, then having to stop with the pump.
Post edited at 22:14
 BarrySW19 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

Climbing is the best training for climbing. This is going to be true for at least the first couple of years of climbing and probably for ever unless you get really serious about it.

Interesting to see what the NHS has to say on this: http://www.nhs.uk/Livewell/fitness/Pages/rock-climbing-health-benefits.aspx

 BarrySW19 02 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

> As to geography/climbing outside, I'm in London with no transport of my own so I can't get to the countryside for any "real" outdoor climbing.

Not a problem - there are a few London clubs (including my lot http://www.londonmountaineeringclub.com/ ) where you can get lifts to outdoor trips. You've pretty much missed this season unless you want to do one of the trips abroad during autumn/winter, but you certainly don't need a car to do plenty of outdoor climbing.
 BusyLizzie 03 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

With apologies for pressing the point about running: I started climbing four years ago and started jogging/waddling in order to get fit for climbing. When I started, I literally ran round the block - a tiny distance was all I could manage. I became able to do a respectable distance (3 miles?) surprisingly soon. Nobody laughed, which also surprises me (apart from my children, of course, but they laugh at me whatever I do). Remarkably soon it made a difference to my weight, and I think it is running that keeps my weight respectable now.

Sorry to ramble on - but it's free, it's not weather-dependant, it's not partner-dependant, it's out of doors, you get benefits far quicker than you'd expect and - best of all - it gets you fit for climbing. I see all shapes and sizes in Hyde Park; no-one will laugh, or even notice.

Anyway - enjoy the new climbing lifestyle!!
 Michael Gordon 03 Oct 2014
In reply to BarrySW19:

Climbing keeps you in reasonable shape physically but doesn't get you fit. If you're overweight then that is best remedied through other forms of exercise.
 Michael Gordon 03 Oct 2014
In reply to SiGregory:

>
> Then I started running (at night) on a couch to 5k plan

That is one long couch!
 climbwhenready 03 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

Professionals will be able to give better advice than I can, but the way I think about it:

* Climbing involves pushing with legs (which is quite easy) and pulling with arms (which is hard)
[ although good technique minimises the amount of arm-pulling you have to do ]

* Therefore the most important muscle group to "strengthen up" are the arm pulling muscles
[ finger strength is also important, but a very easy muscle to injure, and realistically get stronger just be climbing ]

* There were some articles on here recently by a physiotherapist saying that it's important to train the antagonistic "pushing" muscles too, as you can injure yourself by having one half of an antagonistic pair a lot stronger than the other

As a side note, if the gym is set up with a line of auto-belays, do be careful! Nothing wrong with auto-belays, but if you're focused on a gym routine and don't have a partner, it's easy to forget to clip in (which I think is the most common cause of auto-belay accidents). With traditional "partner checks", if you do something stupid, it's normally picked up by the other brain standing next to you.

There's also loads of other places to climb in London, and loads of people who can give you lifts to the real world
 Dax H 03 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

> And finally, I refuse to jog or exercise outside because I hate being stared at and watched as I wobble and pant and dry-heave my way through a short jog!

I feel your pain, I used to be as fit as the proverbial butcher's dog but life changed as it does and I got unfit and fat.
The final straw was 3 months ago when i realised that walking up a flight of stairs had me out of breath and i tipped the scales at 18.5 stone .
To compound things i come home from work filthy and nackered so going to the gym after just doesnt happen.
So i started going early. I get up at 0445 3 days a week, start my workout at 0530 till 0630 and drastically changed the meat to veg ratio on my plate and 3 months later I am 16.5 stone and can jog up multiple flights of stairs and have started indoor climbing again.
Keep at it because if I can do it anyone can and you will be surprised how quickly you will see the benefits
 mrdigitaljedi 04 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

Hi i know where your coming from, 16/12/13 i weighted in at 16st 10lb, a size 38 waist and a xxl t-shrt, and was feeling every inch of it.

My solution was also to join a gym but for me i put a pair of headphones on turned up the volume and ran, i started off at 1.5k the moved up and up each week.

I reduced the size of meals took 1 bag of crisp instead of 2, cut out chocolate/sweets and puddings, and saw a gradual lose of weight.

9mnths on ive done my 1st 10k charity run, i weight 12st 6lb 34inch waist and a medium t-shirt, it wasnt easy by a long shot but just persevier and it'll all come good.

heres my blog about my reason and effort.

http://mrdigitaljedi1.blogspot.co.uk/2014/09/10k-run-well-its-that-time-for...
Simos 16 Oct 2014
In reply to j3nesis:

Lots of advice here but my 2p is walk for as long as you can (maybe 45m-1hr each way) to work and back - keep a fast pace. In 3 months time you'll see real results if you do it consistently and I am sure that losing weight will help you a lot when it comes to climbing (obviously I am making the assumption here based on what you've written that you could be leaner). If you do this you can skip cardio at gym anyway and focus on building strength or just forget about the gym altogether and go climbing more frequently at another wall unfortunately I doubt that climbing once a week will help you lose much weight and in any case walking is great for you.
 Dogwatch 19 Oct 2014
In reply to Ciro:

> A yoga class once a week is pretty useless though

Don't agree, one class a week does make a significant difference to flexibility over time. More = better, sure.


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...