In reply to Jus:
> Does anyone have any info/ photos on bouldering in the area?
> I'm there for a week at the end of October and have the new route guide.
> Both the guide and Climb Europe mention good bouldering in the area in Massi di Loreto.
> As we are there with small kids, bouldering will be a good option if routes not a possibility.
> Ps if anyone has any tips for must-visit sport crags/ must-do routes in the area - let me know please!
Hi there!
To start with, check this out:
http://www.infoboulder.com/varazze.php?mod=gallery&ID=1417 Varazze is the must visit bouldering area in Liguria. Stella Marchisio runs the Finale Climb shop in Finalborgo. If you're desperate she may be able/willing to help. She has two kids, she's lovely and she is a very, very strong boulderer.
As for routes/crags recommendations in Finale, it really depends on your kids age. Finale may not be the best place in the world for climbing with kids, despite German families crowding its crags all year round. Approach walks are generally longish and the base is seldom flat.
Having said that, if this is your first ever visit...
Specchio in Monte Sordo is a must-see crag. Base is not the best for kids. There are no objective dangers, though it's not flat. Try Schizzechea (overhang, F7a+) and il Cammino di Isengard (finalese classic, F6a+). Avoid the 4's... they're more like font 6a problems...
Also at Monte Sordo, Settore Centrale. Historical slab routes. Very popular winter crag. Base is ok for kids. Try Placca delle Bimbe, F6a, 100% finalese experience, hate it or love it. If you love it then try Introspezione Elettrostatica, F6b+. And if you love that too... Fedeli Alla Linea, F7b.
Again in Monte Sordo, Parete Dimenticata. Routes are a bit scattered, but very nice. Base is fine, usual crag dangers/caveats, but longish approach. Drop some grades.
Sunny mornings in Bric Scimarco can offer memorable climbing. Stick to the upper tier and go as far right as you can (careful towards the end of the ledge, don't bring your kids there). This is basically a large ledge, it's flat, but you may not want to leave your kids running about free. If they fall off the ledge, it's a 20 meters drop... I've seen kids there before, it doesn't mean much, I know. To fall you almost have to jump deliberately, but you never know with kids... Try Oltremitica, F6c, (first 10 meters are a bit polished, then it gets on some amazing rock with super nice technical moves, 35 meters) and Hyperzot, F6c+/7a.
Settore Ovest at Rocca di Corno. Not great for kids, again, I've seen kids there before... I brought my daughter when she was weeks old... and I've seen 10 year old getting bored in the wood. It's an amazing crag though. Give or take half day off and visit this sector if you can. It's worth it. Climb Rombo di Vento, the most amazing F6c I've ever climbed in my life (make generous use of 30+ cm long sling draws).
Monte Cucco, Anfiteatro. Avoid the red limestone or accept the fact that you won't find anything more polished than that. Everyone has to climb at Monte Cucco. Base is ok for kids. Try Stravolgimento Totale (first half partially on red limestone... top half is on pristine rock), Zambarinik, Coconut, etc.
Also at Monte Cucco, if you are strong, sector Arco (Grottone). Base is ok for kids.
If you're ridiculously strong, don't miss Grotto di Perti. It's a cave. Base is fine for kids. But it may be a little cold. It's in the shade. Giravuelta is one of Finale's most sought-after benchmark, F8a.
If it's not too cold, Boragni has plenty to go at with virtually no approach and ok base for kids. Try Change The World and its neighbours. (DANGER: some routes on far right at il Pilastro, tempting given that it's less than 100 m walk from the car, have unsafe bolts).
Personally I find the hidden and most remote sectors in Rian Cornei the best ones, but maybe the approach is on average too long for carrying kids, although the base is often alright. If you want to venture, maybe Silenzio Alto and Placconata Centrale might be the most suitable sectors?
If you want to amaze your kids (assuming they've the right age) bring them to Grotta dell'Edera or Grotta della Strapatente. Bring torches, rope up.
There's more... a lot more... feel free to drop me a line. I'm happy to help
(I'm working on a Finale Beta blog...)
Ciao!
Nic
Post edited at 18:07
