UKC

martin's route, gerlach, slovakia

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redsonja 20 Oct 2014
has anyone done martin's route on gerlach in the high tatras? I would be grateful for any advice etc. we are just looking at it for next year- summer. how long did it take? did you bivvy? is route finding quite straightforward? which guidebook did you use? thanks for any help
 proandras 21 Oct 2014
In reply to redsonja:
Little help, the rout finding is simple, it start at the Polski hreben, a pass with marked trail.
http://www.summitpost.org/martinovka-martin-s-route/466976

The weather can change _very_ fast in High Tatras.

Only members of an UIAA memeber association are permitted to leave the marked trail and climb freely, others need a local mountain guide.
Post edited at 10:15
RockShock 22 Oct 2014
In reply to redsonja:
Bivvying is prohibited in Tatras and the ban is quite strongly enforced - probably to improve the business in the Sliezska Chata hotel - it's a luxury hotel, not a mountain hut - but unfortunately the prices match the standard.

The descent from Gerlach is quite tricky if you choose to go down the east normal route through "Wielicka Proba", route finding can be problematic, there are cairns but best bet can be to simply follow some guided party if there is one descending this way.

The descent via "Batizovska Proba" is a bit more straightforward, I am guessing should be the preferred option if time/weather is closing in - allows to loose altitude fast and is not that complicated when it comes to route finding. As the route follows the couluir, watch for loose stones coming your way from parties ahead.

When on Gerlach proper, take care of the guided parties - they seem to be a local variation of Matterhorn parties, with the right of way inherited from their grandfathers and where you are an intruder if you don't pay for the guiding service.... Of course that's not a rule, but just an observation I had.

Have fun!
RS
Post edited at 11:39

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