UKC

Right.

First pair of climbing shoes I bought were a used pair of katanas size 42.5 (for normal shoes I'm 43/43.5).

They worked pretty well for about 3 years climbing up to E2 but toes completely gone now.

I then tried a new pair of katanas 41.5, and then 42 but after one pitch the pressure on the top of my big toe when edging on the toe was appalling. What gives? I have read that one should be able to go down x2 euro sizes with katanas.

I think my feet are approx medium width and I have a medium high arch.

Am I buying the wrong climbing shoe model?

Can someone help with terms like instep measurement (is this the arch under the foot or on the top of foot?), toe slope, rigidity

In reply to buffalo606:

IMO you cannot apply such a hard and fast rule to shoe sizing, each pair can be unique. My shoe size is 42, my Sportiva Muira's are size 40 and normally OK but on a trip to Kalymnos I couldn't climb in them as my feet expanded so much with the heat. I ended up buying some 5.10 Anasazi's in my shoe size, 42. The 5.10's are not as stiff as the Muira's however.

In reply to buffalo606:

I go down 2 Euro sizes in Katanas, they hurt for the first couple of indoor session or first few outdoor climbs, but generallky okay after that, although I couldn't wear them all day without taking off.

As Grid North says, nothing hard and fast about that rule though.

In reply to buffalo606:

I have the same shoe size as you and went with Katana 41. Indeed the first week is eye watering, but after they stretch, they are like slippers.

In reply to Tom Last:



Similar for me, i'm size 43 and take Katana's in a 40.5 (so down 2.5 sizes). They stretched quite a bit after 3 or 4 indoor sessions, I might have gone for size 40's if I wanted a more aggressive fit for bouldering or something.

In reply to buffalo606:

The Katana s stretch a lot. My street shoe size is 43.5/44. My Katanas are 41 which are firm but comfortable enough. You just have to bite your lip for a few sessions otherwise if you get more comfortable shoes out of the box you will end up with a shoe that won't edge, perform or feedback as the shoe was meant to be.There are other things to think of. Shape of your feet, If your big toe isn't strong from edging on tiny holds with tighter shoes?

In reply to buffalo606:

Give it a couple of sessions, they will stretch to fit your feet. 2 sizes down or 2.5 does not make much of a difference in terms of final size but may in terms of pain....

I have size 43.5 Katanas that I wear with thick socks for outdoor climbing in the cold while my regular size is more like 45.5.

CB

In reply to buffalo606:

My experience: my shoe size is 41.5, my katanas are 38.5. I tried 39 couple of months ago, but they stretched too much, so I eventually went back to 38.5. First couple of sessions are always painful, but things go back to normal after 10 climbing days or so

thanks for all the advice.

basically i need to man up.

only weird thing is that i thought my old worn out 42.5s were pretty tight...

just wanted to make sure that they will stretch as this is the first brand new pair i have bought.

In reply to buffalo606:

they will stretch...

i take 42s in sportiva boots
i dont size my shoes aggressively i dont think

i have a 40 in katanas that used to be tight, they are now multi pitch shoes
i have a pair of 39.5s and they are also comfortable enough to climb all day

the top part of my shoes have a permanent bump where my toes would be pushing up against. so yes the leather will stretch for sure

In reply to buffalo606:

Rule No.5 youtube.com/watch?v=unkIVvjZc9Y&