UKC Forums - Mont blanc Via Taconnaz Ridge

Mont blanc Via Taconnaz Ridge

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agnew1985 25 Nov 2014

Hi there, I'm planning a trip to mont blanc in the summer and I've been browsing the griffin guidebook and was wondering if anyone had any experience with the route to the summit via the taconnaz ridge - dome du gouter, etc... It looked an appealing option as it avoids huts and gives what I assume would be a much more isolated first day with a bivvy on the ridge below the aiguille du gouter. However, I can find no evidence online of anyone doing this route. Not a problem in itself but just wondered if anyone had any opinions on its viability? Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Nick

Mark Haward 29 Nov 2014

In reply to agnew1985:

By the Taconnaz Ridge do you mean the ridge between the Tacconaz and Bossons Glaciers ( the Montangne de la Cote )? If so this is the route of the first ascent. From the top of the ridge you are close to the Grands Mulets Hut and there are a variety of routes from here to the summit.
One big disadvantage is the huge height gain required on summit day so you need to be well acclimatised. The area between the top of the ridge and the hut can be quite entertaining , seracs and interesting snow bridges.

walts4 30 Nov 2014

In reply to agnew1985.

I've been wanting to climb this for a number of years, could be fun just getting initialy onto the ridge from the road!.
Never heard of anybody climbing this or even hearing anybody showing or knowing anything about this prior to your post.

Good luck, it does look fun..

OP agnew1985 10 Dec 2014

In reply to agnew1985:

Thanks for the reponses guys. The ridge in question is actually the ridge continuing from le gros bechar to the aig de gouter. The grade is AD and the book description is 'This excellent route gives a long yet safe climb to the summit of the mountain (ie, aig de gouter) from Taconnaz via the Gros Bechar ridge, and a bivouac in the vicinity of Pt 3154m.'

Still looks good to me but any other thoughts would be welcome!

Nick

jon 10 Dec 2014

In reply to agnew1985:
Ah, so the ridge on the other side of the Taconnaz glacier to the Montagne de la Côte. I could imagine you'd have utter solitude until you got to the Goûter, then... not! I guess the advantage of the other ridge, the Montagne de la Côte with a bivvy at the gîte de Balmat just below the Junction is that it leads to the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter so you get a wee bit more solitude on your second day before joining the Bosses ridge. Of course you could then avoid that by heading across the Grand Plateau from the col du Dôme to join the original Corridor Route. That would be a great historical route as it's more or less the line of the first ascent.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=160971

Post edited at 20:43

OP agnew1985 10 Dec 2014

In reply to agnew1985:

Yeah, this route is a strong contender. I like the historical element, but the height gain is the only thing thats a bit of a bore and the other route (gros bechar) seems to be even less frequented and in that sense has slightly more of an adventure feel to it!