UKC

I'm looking for some info/advice on worthwhile valley ice cragging destinations close to Chamonix (30min drive). I'm
heading out there for some touring in early Feb, and one of the guys going would like to try ice climbing as well. I've climbed at la Cremerie on bad weather days before, but haven't been to any of the other valley ice crags or even know much about them. I've done a bit of research but would like a bit more info before we get there.

We'll be looking for WI 2 or 3 with safe approaches.

How do you get to the 'viaduct ice falls'/'cascade saint marie' in les Houches?
I've heard there is some ice cragging at the Col des Montets. Is it worth us heading to?

Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks!

In reply to NottsRich:
Hi, Try this link from the Alpine Club site:
http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/funalps/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Soft-Ice.p...

If you click on the blue names you get to an English description on the camptocamp.org site.
Hopefully, and if conditions allow, I will add descriptions for a lot of the routes still in black this winter.
Help in doing this is always welcome.
Gus

In reply to cagm:

Yo,

The Cascade du Dard is a grade 2/3 multipitch about a half hour's walk from the parking by the Aiguille du Midi, approach is super safe and routefinding easy because about a dozen dog walkers go up the same path every day.

It didn't freeze at all last winter, but it was in good condition the two Februaries before that (2012, 2013). If it's pretty chilly when you are in Cham, that might be worth having a look at. I'll certainly be walking up to it with the dog every now and then to see how it's doing.

In reply to cagm:

Thanks both, that's really useful. And the funalps document is just what I needed! I'd love to help with translations but my French is petty appalling I'm afraid.

Pete, is that walkers track you mentioned the one off to the right immediately as you drive into the carpark, by the roundabout?

In reply to NottsRich:

Yep, that's the one, there are actually two ways to take it from there - one path goes up the hill and into the woods for about 400m distance with about 100m height gain, and this first part of the path isn't marked on the map but it's definitely there, then it turns right and descends again back to a little clearing in the woods where several paths join and the path for the cascade again climbs up the hill.

The second option follows along the edge of the road (but is separated by a bank of trees and then a ditch, so you aren't actually on the road) towards the Devouassoux bell shop (just in case you were running low on bells), past the edge of the old Grepon campsite right next to the road, and then turns left before a little stream, crossing the old campsite (watch out for travellers dogs, they all bark quite loudly but are actually quite friendly if you give them a chance) and ends up in the same clearing as the first path. From there the route is marked on the map, but it's the only path that obviously climbs up the hill, veering off to the right, towards the tunnel road.

It might give you a little bit more ascent/descent, but I prefer the first path - no road traffic, you're always in the woods, it's just a nicer setting, and it'll be a good warm up, anyway.

In reply to NottsRich:
Hi again,
Just to be clear, I have done all the translations for the routes on the list already in camptocamp.org , What I am trying to do is to climb the rest of the routes and add the descriptions (in English) to c2c . The only help I am looking for involves climbing the routes. I did the cascade des Dards quite a few years ago and can confirm it is good though make sure the slopes above are reasonably stable, (especially true for the neighbouring Cascade Favrands). My memory is not good enough to write the description so I am looking forward to doing it again soon.
Gus

In reply to NottsRich:

Just need to carry a French/English dictionary up the routes with the French Guidebook I suppose. =D

In reply to cagm:

Gus, now I understand you! My fault, sorry. If we end up climbing any of the missing routes then I'll drop you a message afterwards with a brief description if that's any use to you.

Pete, your description is perfect! Thanks.

In reply to NottsRich:

No problem dude.

For the record, I haven't actually climbed it, as I only started ice climbing two years ago (so I can't help you with your c2c entry just yet Gus, but I'd love to if I get a trip up it this year). I've only ever been there in winter in my capacity as a dog walker, my dog quite likes to solo the WI1 cone leading to the first pitch.

This is the most it froze all last winter, back in mid December:

http://imgur.com/hLzZpzQ