UKC

I'm planning for 12 days Costa Blanca Xmas/NY and genning up on the climbing.

Tips welcomed for:

Lo-grade tufa crags (6c/7a)

Finger-savers ie. steep good holds

Good crags which Rockfax has missed out.

We'll be based nr Xalo/Jalon valley

In reply to LeeWood:

Gandia Gandia is pretty good for Tufa climbing with a full range of grades from 6b through to 8s. Bit of a drive from Xalo, but it's quick once you are on the E15. Orange House have some topos to a few additional/recently bolted things that aren't in the Rockfax e.g. new developments at Sella right of Sector Final http://theorangehouse.co.uk/
All downloadable from their site if you register your email address with them (free).

In reply to LeeWood:

Make sure you download this - http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/miniguides/costa-blanca-xtra/
That has 8 crags not in the Rockfax printed book.

Not sure that tufts are the best things to save your fingers on since they can often have crozzely rock on them.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Tufts sound quite finger friendly to me

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Thanks Alan - I will download. So thats why I'll need 'finger savers' - the day after I've been on the tufas !

In reply to The Ivanator:

Sounds like you're a frequent visitor to the zone. Do you know if Forada is feasible in the winter months??

In reply to LeeWood:

I've not actually climbed at Forada although we thought about it when I was last there and the weather was unseasonably warm for January (mid 20s) - we were at the Orange House and other climbers had been there and enjoyed good conditions. I think the best side is fairly shady and exposed if the ambient temperature is not so generous,

In reply to LeeWood:

Forada in the Winter months can freeze your bits off! In fact I have warn a duvet in July when the wind blows!

The sunny routes are nice enough but not really worth the drive much better crags around in the sun during the cold months.

At the moment people are moaning its a tad too warm in the sun during the day but its cold at night and in the shade!

Sam Orange House