UKC

Ropes on North Face of the Eiger, who puts them there?

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J1234 10 Dec 2014

Ropes on North Face of the Eiger, who puts them there? and how? In several places there are ropes ie the Hinterstoisser Traverse, but other places to. Do guides put them there or do teams take a spare rope just in case or what. Also if placed by guides do they climb the route just to place the ropes, or come through the tunnels or use a helicopter, or what?
Post edited at 07:45
Removed User 10 Dec 2014
In reply to SCrossley:

The same way bolts get put in Broad Stand.
 blackcat 10 Dec 2014
In reply to SCrossley: Theres also lots of ropes left from filming over the years too.

 Robert Durran 10 Dec 2014
In reply to blackcat:

They're all left from hideous epics when people have died of cold dangling from the ends of them or abseiled off the end of them in a storm.
cb294 10 Dec 2014
In reply to Robert Durran:

Please donĀ“t confuse the OP. It is a widely known fact that the ropes are put there by Swiss rope gnomes.

CB
 GridNorth 10 Dec 2014
In reply to SCrossley:

I left one up there some years ago after an epic retreat. My mate had a broken leg and the weather was atrocious despite the forecast. The rope got stuck after several abseils and I was too knackered to climb back up to release it.
J1234 10 Dec 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

I understand that kind of thing, but there appear to be a certain number of fixed ropes, of dubious character I`m sure, but from what I uderstand it would be prudent to leave a rope at the Hinerstoisser but I doubt many take a rope to leave and in other places there seem to be one or two ropes in certain vital places. Just wondering how they get there.
 ewar woowar 10 Dec 2014
In reply to SCrossley:

Just as the early climbers used the English Lake District crags as practice for alpine N faces, so modern climbers do so today.

In fact someone was out practicing leaving ropes on the abseil from Middlefell Buttress just the other day. A promising start for them to go out and leave ropes on the great N faces!











No offence!
;~))
 Cheese Monkey 10 Dec 2014
In reply to SCrossley:

Buzz lightyear
 Goucho 10 Dec 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

> I left one up there some years ago after an epic retreat. My mate had a broken leg and the weather was atrocious despite the forecast. The rope got stuck after several abseils and I was too knackered to climb back up to release it.

There might still be one of my relics from when I was a stupid enough to try it too? - 11mm blue perlon?

I had two epic storm lashed retreats from the hideous bastard - never went back for a third try!
 blackcat 10 Dec 2014
In reply to Goucho: How high did you get up on both attempts.

 Goucho 10 Dec 2014
In reply to blackcat:

> How high did you get up on both attempts.

Death Bivi on the first, Brittle Ledges on the second.
 blackcat 11 Dec 2014
In reply to Goucho: Respect.
 Goucho 14 Dec 2014
In reply to blackcat:

> Respect.

Hardly, I ran back across the second icefield both times like a whimpering child

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