UKC

Hi,

coming summer season I'll be going to the Karakoram and we'll most likely go for a technical line on a 7000m peak (allthough, obviously, not very technical because of the altitude).

I will need new shoes for this and reading online and gathering as much info as I can as well as having spoken to other himalaya/karakoram climbers just about everyone seems to point their finger towards the Sportiva Spantik.

I get that its probably the most lightweight, high altitude technical double boot out there. However, I'd like to compare boots and look at other options as well before I just go and spend my money.

Any flaws? Any other options I should consider?

Spantiks generally perform great at 6000-7000m. We might go just over 7500 or even 7600, looking at our different options (permits are still being arranged and discussions are ongoing, I don't like all these politics around climbing but I guess over there it's part of the game) and I do get cold feet rather fast. Allthough I guess the Spantiks should suffice.

So basically, I'm just asking about more info. And not the stuff you can find online, I've read all that. Personal input. Flaws. Great touches/design oddities. Minor inconveniences. Or maybe other shoes that would perform similar or even better?

Thanks in advance,

Denis

In reply to HosteDenis:



I've only used Spantiks to 7134m, in the Pamir. I don't normally get cold feet (though in Antarctica I always used Olympus Mons) and at about 6700m on Peak Lenin at 5am I had a very cold foot. The Pamir is colder than the Karakoram, and the Karakoram can be very hot even at 6000m, but at 7500m most mountains are pretty cold, particularly on summit morning.

Personally I think 7500m, or lower, is the upper limit for Spantiks *for most people* - I know that some people have used them climbing new routes on 8000m peaks, but you are not those people I love La Sportiva, but they have been known to write some complete rubbish about their mountain boots in their marketing material (Baturas on Everest etc).

Karakoram moraines will destroy Olympus Mons or simlar soft altitude boots, so take a lighter single boot for low down and use the OlyMons higher up. If you know you get cold feet easily, Spantiks might not be warm enough for you above 7000m. Clearly Spantiks are better for technical climbing than Olympus Mons, but if you're asking this question and have not climbed in this way before, then I'm not sure how technical your route will be.

In reply to Damo:

I usually only climb technical terrain. I'm asking this question because it's the high altitude I have no experience with, not the technical climbing.

I'm joining a party of which two members have climbed (technical) routes over 7000m. They've used Spantiks the last four or so years and advised me to buy the same boots. Reading online just got me a little worried - are they warm enough for 7500m? Asking them, they assure me everything will be fine but I'd rather get some more feedback before I buy the right - or wrong - boots.

In reply to HosteDenis:

Spantiks might be fine. Other than your personal physiology, it will depend exactly what you climb.

If you climb technical ground to 6600m, camp, then plod up to 7400m you might be fine.

If you camp a night at 7100m and get up at 2am to go to a 7600m summit then you might get cold feet.

If your route is on a shaded north face then standing at belays you might get cold feet.

If your route is on a sunny, rocky south face you'd probably be fine.

All this assumes you eat and drink enough to be sufficiently fuelled and hydrated, don't let your socks get too damp and don't have anything else happen that renders you immobile or otherwise injured.