UKC

Quick bit of advice heading out to champion with the plan of climbing rock routes on the envers or around tacul , A'm . I can climb lead V+ and probably second VI+ but the grading systems in the French guide books are leaving me a bit puzzled as its a combination of a French sports grade and alpine grade.

How do people generally work these out for instance there are routes on the envers that have grades TD/ED/ABO but the french grade is 6a+. What would this be in equivalent on the UIAA scale or even better uk Trad grade .

Possibly there isnt an answer to this short of rocking up and taking a look but thought i would ask

In reply to kingjam:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/comptable.html

Alpine grades are a bit different. Every publisher uses another system to determine the alpine grade. That's why in one book the route is graded D and in the other AD+ and vice versa. Has to do with length, steepness, commitment and climbing grades.

In reply to kingjam:

I think this http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=132048 is given F6a+ in the book. It felt about E2 5c.

In reply to kingjam:
For those kind of rock routes, if you have a full topo with French grades, then the alpine grades are (in my opinion) an irrelevance.

In reply to Rob Parsons:


Indeed. Though you can apply a bit of common sense, for example the 'TD+' of a modern part-bolted route like Bienvenue au Georges V (TD+ 6a+) is not the same as the 'TD+' of the The North Face (TD+ 6a).

In reply to Rob Parsons:

I think that makes sense , thanks all