UKC

Hi guys,

So this Summer I went to Chamonix with some friends. This was the 4th week i've been in total but i'm still much of a novice with this trip being the first time we climbed anything harder than PD.

I made a video of a route I did and watching back I can see some things I could have done differently and I was wondering if the community wouldn't mind doing the same and letting me know so I can learn from any mistakes or tips!

I am still learning so I appreciate there will be things I could have done better so please try and stick to the 'constructive' side of criticism!

Video Link: youtube.com/watch?v=rRvBSuVJEWU&

Thanks a lot!

(Criticise the Alpine techniques please - Not the quality of editing )

In reply to Jordangask:

Very brave!

In reply to Jordangask:

I know nothing about mountaineering, so this is not criticism:

At the start, you're walking along a ridge about 2m behind your partner and appear to be roped together. What would you do if he slipped?

In reply to humptydumpty:

Jump the other side! Or atleast, I think that's what i'm meant to do!

In reply to Jordangask:

haven't watched the whole video yet, but at 57 seconds the person in the black ME kit with white helmet appears to be "made safe" with a very loose dynema sling. if the person slips from there, that sling may break if shock loaded, try and keep slings weighted on the belay stance. in this case make it much shorter or just use the rope to tie onto the belay with

DMM did some interesting videos on shock loading slings that might surprise you...

In reply to Jordangask:

If he slipped I expect you'd be in trouble. The main idea of short roping on the ridge is for you to be able to stabilize a 'stumble' before it becomes a slip. If it becomes a slip I expect it'd be too late.

In reply to humptydumpty:

and a very short rope on that angled ascent to the belay, if you slipped you'd probably take your seconds feet out from under them

In reply to Jordangask:

Do you mean comment on the video or comment on your alpine skills?

I enjoyed the video, thanks.

In reply to rallymania:

If you look closely, the sling has a knot in it and is tight. The loose part you can see is just the excess going back to the harness. Pause it 57 seconds and decide for yourselves.

In reply to Jordangask:

It looks like everyone is commenting on the alpinism skills so....

I'd have my axe on a wrist leash for an AD route, spring leashes are a pain in the arse when not climbing steep stuff and if you drop your axe you drop your hand as a mate of mine once said.

Also I wouldn't place ice gear when there is rock gear available, it's quicker and generally more reliable, though your screw looked good.

When crossing the bergschrund at the end maybe have more rope between you - there isn't really enough there to stop you both going in if one goes in - 10m rope would provide more friction on the lip and a little more reaction time. Your rope tightness between you 2 when crossing the bergschrund was good though.

Also try going somewhere other than Chamonix if you've been there 4 times, go where the days are bigger on easier routes, like the Ecrins

In reply to rallymania:


Yes, but before breakin' the sling, that person would also break something significant in his body... not smart.



indeed.

In reply to Jordangask:

I cant comment on the Alpinism as I am a noob but I thoroughly enjoyed the video. Thanks for posting!

In reply to Jordangask:

Also enjoyed the video, having done the route!
Another vote for the Ecrins!

In reply to Jordangask:
Thanks all for the advice! Where some people have said we shouldn't have short roped the initial ridge, is the alternative not being roped at all? If we had more rope between us I wouldn't be able to 'stop his slip turning into a fall'?

In reply to Jordangask:

id have roped up as you did.
I cant help but think that your axe needs something to secure it to you, when dropped they slide a long way quickly

In reply to LakesWinter:


Definitely, I would use leashes up to D+ and probably beyond.

This quasi-religious belief that leashes are the work of the devil is naive in the extreme, they work well in a lot of situations, certainly a lot better than the horrible sight of an axe not attached at all, especially one that doesn't seem to have much of a handle and is doing very little good.

Agree with most of the comments about short-roping as well, especially when troging along a glacier. Why would you not have as much rope run out as possible?

Re the video, it makes me feel distinctly queasy, but that just seems to be the standard effect of helmet mounted cameras.

In reply to ow arm:


And then you have no axe!

Also if you are placing it in the snow and releasing your hand like that :

1) it is doing you no good
2) picking it up and placing it all the time massively increases the chance of it going walkabout.

In reply to Jordangask: Enjoyed that, to say its one of those gopro cameras wasnt too shaky.Difficult to say from the angles that i could see but would i be right in saying, when you belayed him for the traverse,if hed had come off wouldnt the belayer had been pulled sharpley rightwards unequalising the belay, so all the weight of both climbers would be on the left screw.

Great video, looked like a good day out! Roping up to descend the arête is fairly standard, it does have a good sense of exposure especially with a breeze blowing. It is OK to descend unroped if you are feeling good about balance, altitude, exposure and self-arrest. Agree that when short roping minimise slack in the rope, less chance to pick up speed if you slip. Try to avoid a loop of rope in the hand (would tighten painfully if holding a fall) but we all tend to do this if the rope is a bit long for the slope we're on! I also like leashes. Good climbing!

In reply to Jordangask:

Short roping section on a level or descending narrow ridge, two scenarios:
1) In party of two when one is more experienced and very comfortable on the terrain and has practiced the technique; the capable person stays at the back with a small number of locked off hand coils in the downhill hand keeping rope taught at all times in order to provide confidence and stop a slip developing into a fall. In ascent the more capable person leads.
2) In party of two where both members are 'equals' and staying roped together: If practical both climb on opposite sides of the ridge with about 5 arm spans of rope between and rope fairly taut ( I have only been able to do this once). Most commonly both people hold a small number of hand coils that are not locked off. If either party slips the other scrambles / jumps over the opposite side. Same in ascent. Another possible option is to solo but you don't really want to be taking the rope on and off.

Leashes:
Rather than being governed by grade I would tend to be governed by terrain and conditions and how I am climbing. Hand leashes are great when a lot of axe plunging is required, spring leashes are great when little plunging and more pick work is required. Some ADs, for example the Grissolle when icy, can be better tackled with spring leashes. However, others ( including the Grissolle when more snowy ) may be better suited to hand leashes. Sometimes I climb leash-less on easy and harder routes or routes where I am alternating between rock / mixed / snow / ice so I can temporarily stow the axe elsewhere ( this can usually still be done with springer leashes ) but I have to be prepared for / accept the consequences of dropping a tool.

In reply to Jordangask:

Thanks for the feedback everyone who took the time to advise, we're always learning!

In reply to Jordangask:

Haven't watched the whole movie yet. But in the very beginning when you guys left the cable station you roped up. Personally I wouldn't have roped up there because when one falls the other goes with him. You simply don't have the time to react and jump to the other side.