UKC

Hey guys,

Anyone using camp ball nuts, I have none but have heard some good stuff about them in thin cracks and pin scars and wondering if anyone rates them or if there is something else out there doing the job. Would be good to hear some pros and cons.

Thanks,
Ben

In reply to Bhealey:

I had one before and we tried to get it to work at ground level messing around at the crag one day. I found it too difficult to use. For free climbing I found it a disaster. Maybe for aid but again it takes ages to seat it correctly. I thin the best application to for headpointing where you have no other alternative.

In reply to Bhealey:
Bit hard to get out when fallen on, and a bit heavy compared to small cams. But they go in places small cams won't (narrow head), seat better than small cams (don't walk) and are, like cams, very quick to place.

Great bits of kit.

In reply to thomasadixon:

I agree with cyberpunk.

Bit hard to get out when fallen on, Yes

and a bit heavy compared to small cams. No Probably lighter

But they go in places small cams won't (narrow head), Yes

seat better than small cams (don't walk) Yes and No Because they dont walk need to be aligned with load.



and are, like cams, very quick to place. But because you want one side to grip and the other to slide, they are difficult to assess how good for a fall.

Great bits of kit. ???? I found some and very very rarely use them.

In reply to Rick Graham:
I've used them quite a bit an found them pretty useful, especially to replace small fiddly wires in thin cracks. Didn't find assessing them hard after practice, that's just opinion. Trust them more than small cams in shiny limestone, mostly where I've used them.

They feel heavy, and a set seems to weigh quite a bit in your hand an on the harness. They might not be, never checked with scales.

In reply to thomasadixon:

Yes. Probably the best clean climbing device in parallel limestone slots.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Some more info here - a bit of a kiwi slant to it, but still useful : http://climber.co.nz/forum/gear/ball-nuts-alpine-trad

In reply to Bhealey:

I bought the smallest one years ago and still carry it around with me for some reason. I never could get it to stick and thought it rather costly compared to other gear. Reckon the price should be somewhere between a micro nut and the smallest zero, instead it was the most expensive.

In reply to Bhealey:

I have the two smallest and use them all the time,yes they are going to be hard to get out after a fall but saying that i yank mine in good and they always come out.
Like any gear you are not used to you have to look for placements to make the most of them,i have protected (at least i think) loads of climbs with ballnuts that otherwise would have been unprotectable or had a long run outs.

Ballnuts go 2 sizes smaller than the smallest micro cam but are stronger at 7kn for the smallest and 8 for the rest.
Never fallen on one yet but having them allows me to climb stuff i otherwise might of backed off from or never had the nerve to even start.

cheers cliff..

In reply to Bhealey:

ball nuts = bollocks nuts

'nuff said