UKC

Hi all

During a biggish day out on the black ladders yesterday, it became apparent that it's past time to retire my old mammut genesis 8.5mm 60's.

So I'm looking for replacements, and any recommendation would be gratefully received. I want 60m for winter, but will use the ropes for general rock climbing (crags and multi pitch), as I can't really afford more than one set. Ideally, they'll be a bit lighter and slicker handling than my old ones.

So far, these look like good deals:

Edelrid appus 7.8mm at £90 each http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/apus-60cm--p166220

Mammut meteor at 8.3mm at £83 each http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Half-Ro...

Any comments of weight, handling, durability, suitability of 7.8mm for rock climbing, or anything else would be much appreciated - or alternative suggestions.

Cheers

Danny

Thinking

In reply to DannyH:

I use 7.8mm Tendon ropes for travelling, not so sure I´d use any sub 8.5mm for day-to-day general cragging though.

In reply to DannyH:
I climbed on a mate's Apus(es) in the Dolomites and really rated them - great handling, feel surprisingly robust and confidence inspiring given the diameter.

But that's mostly used as twins, with only the odd wiggly pitch as half ropes. For full time half rope use on UK cragging personally I'd stick with 8.5's.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Thanks for the replies. My gut feeling was 7.8 was on the skinny side for general use, which seems to be the view so far. I did like the weight saving though, and wondered if I'd get away with the durability compromise considering how little I get out these days - I'll be lucky if these see a dozen outings a year...
D

In reply to DannyH:

Mammut Phoenix at 8mm is the obvious alternative, with a reputation for durability that belies their diameter. I got mine from Outside for a shade over £200 the pair. Done a fair bit of mixed in them but no cragging, but only 'cos my partner likes to use his 8.5mms for trad. I'd have no qualms using them.

In reply to DannyH:
I use the Apus for Alpine rock and it is excellent for that. For mixed and ice I use the Edelrid Kestrel which is, believe it or not, a more durable version of the Genesis which it replaced. Horses for courses. If just buying a single pair then maybe something between these two such as the Mammut 8mm?

In reply to DannyH:

I've used the apus ropes the last couple of winters and rate them they've kept their dry treatment and have so far been surprisingly durable and excellent to handle. The only slight issue I have is they tangle up very easily. I'm not sure if this is true of all skinny ropes or just the apuses.

Cheers

Gaz

In reply to Gazlynn:

Thanks all.

Hmm, food for thought. Had almost decided to get a set of pheonix's as a compromise, but the old style ones seem hard to get hold of. R&R have them for £110, which is starting to get a fair bit more expensive. Still a bit tempted by the Apus, particularly given Gaz's comments, but a couple of others seem unconvinced. Is that beacuse of durability issues?

I might chop the slightly manky ends of my old ropes, make them the same length again (had to cut 15ft off one a while back after it got loaded over an edge), and keep them as a set of 50's for summer when the complete lack of remaining dry treatment will be less of an issue. They're nearly 8 years old, but haven't held any big falls.

Cheers
D

Hi,

Good old Beal Cobra II Unicore 8.6 do it for me. Given that you said you would use them for everything (rock and winter, and I agree ), I wouldn't bother with Golden Dry (or any other total dry treatment) if I were you. My Cobra's standard dry treatment worked fine last year and ropes never froze when ice climbing. After months of rock climbing, this winter they tend to freeze a bit more easily. They'll definitely do for another summer at least and hopefully another winter...

Nic

In reply to DannyH:

Snap up the Needlesport Mammut Meteor deal. Can't go wrong. I got one for £79 from Go Outdoors recently and have just used it on a week's icefall climbing trip - handles well and dry treatment highly impressive - best rope bargain I've ever had.
I have no qualms at all about using half (do they call that double nowadays?) ropes down to 8mm for rock at home and abroad. Been using first a Roca 60m x 8mm then a Mammut Phoenix 60m x 8mm for say 15 years now for Scotland, Euro sport/trad multipitch and Morocco, USA etc, though tend not to use 'em in England and Wales as then I prefer shorter (40 or 50m) ropes and my shorter ones happen to be 8.5mm.