In reply to Nath93:
I would consider scaling down your grade or expectations for your first season and also try and hook up with somebody who has some Alps experience. Whilst you might be a demon in the UK, it's worth having a bit of advice when first encounter glaciers and huts. Even pay for a day or two with a guide, if you are competent on your feet, they'll stretch you to give a good experience, but also skills for life.
To do some of the routes you've mentioned you need to be pretty slick as a pair, absolute bare minimum of communication, just getting on with it, dropping coils, pitching a little, then back into moving together etc. If you have some mileage on the bigger Scottish ridges Tower, Castle, Skye, Obs etc. then that will certainly help. But decision making when crossing glaciers and reading the line is something that only experience in the Alps gives, crossing rimayes or large bergshrunds too.. there are one or two things to consider other than the pure grade. Also just knowing or sensing when you should really just run away!!
I would suggest stuff like first Phrique up to cosmiques, plod out MB d Tacul, then do the Arete on return. Plenty of time for both, limited gear required and you are always heading nearer to safety as you climb up on return. A series of steady days, where you don't burn yourself out or get spooked will pay off next year.
other scaled down suggests, Dent du Geant, Rochefort Arete, Aig d Moine.. all just half days to the fit and fast, with limited if any objective danger.. so you can take your time and not be under pressure to motor along. There are similar peaks around Saas Fee if your prefer that area.
EDIT - Dave Searle's article is pretty good on here, but there is also no substitute for just being very fit!
Post edited at 17:01