UKC

So I tried out some of my cams the other day for the first time in a while. It turns out half of them don't work, and anyway, perhaps it's actually time to replace those thirty-year-old rigid stem units which I found at the top of Gogarth, sentimentally attached though I am to them.

Someone tells me Totem cams are the thing. But they seem to have their own numbering system. Does anyone know of some online converter to regular Friend sizes? Or can just tell me for that matter - a number 1 Totem seems about the same size as a 1.5 Friend; is that right?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

The needlesports web site has sizes for both types in tables.

http://www.rockrun.com/wp/cam-size-comparison-chart/

not sure if it has the totems ...

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Here you go: has all the min and max ranges for _all_ (okay most of) the cams: http://www.weighmyrack.com/cam/list

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

This one does: http://alanblanchflower.co.uk/climbing/cams.php

More specifically, for Tech Friends vs. Totems: http://alanblanchflower.co.uk/climbing/cams.php?md[]=Technical+Friend&m...

In reply to MG:

Thanks all. I had the sense my Google skills were letting me down.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Totems are good but only go up to Friend 2.5

I replaced my 80s-vintage rigid stem Friends with Totems plus Dragons for the larger sizes, and I recommend it. I would buy a second set of Totems if I were doing more trad these days, but most of what I do is in the Alps and heavily pegged or semi-bolted so I tend not to need that many.

Alan Blanchflower's page is a masterpiece of obsessive-compulsive public service.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I recommend Dragons, mainly for the extendable Dyneema sling (they are excellent in terms of range etc, too) as it often saves you a quickdraw.

In reply to ericinbristol:

They can be a faff to clean when seconding though.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

What's the world coming to? Rob Durran talking about 'send trains'... and now you starting your post with 'so'... It's all downhill now, you know.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Agreed but what works for the leader is top priority for me

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Andy K currently says small aliens, then totems, then camelots as you increase in sizes.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Btw I believe both Totem and BD cam size numbers are the mid range width of the cam in inches

In reply to Offwidth:


Aren't small Aliens now manufactured by Totem?
The Dragons are essentially the same as Camelots but made in Wales and quite a bit cheaper. (if either of those things matter it could be the decider)

In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:


No. Totem make a very similar cam (the Totem Basic) which is basically a copy of the original Alien with some key improvements.
Original "Aliens" are now made by Faders/Fixe who are based in Spain.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

check this for a visual comparison of sizes. kudos to the person who made it.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1J4Ce7nyumynpXu93l7BSg1n_VwdFX9IHjqk...

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Something which might be worth keeping in mind is that UK cams are ment to be easier to keep free of debris which might cause wear and the devices to become gritty than Metolius camming devices, which apparently have less 'play' in them, and feel nice and smooth in the hand when played with, and are perfectly fine to climb on etc.

Happy cam buying.