UKC

My cousin is getting married in Boston at the start of August and I am taking a month off work.

This means that I've got a month to spend in America and no plans apart from at the start of the month!

I think I'll spend my time on the east coast as I don't have much $ for internal flights, and I'm sure there is plenty to see/do there.

I was wondering if anyone knows much about climbing on the East Coast? I'll be starting out in Boston, and could rent a car to get around, or use public transport (heard it's not great out there...).

I'd certainly like to climb, so I'd like to know where the good/best areas are (pref Trad), how easy it will be to find a partner etc.... I suppose I'll be able to take some shoes, harness, and perhaps some cams with me, but a rope would be too inconvenient to carry around for the whole trip.

I imagine I'll take some camping stuff with me. I'd also be interested in doing some travelling around the east coast, whether that be a road trip with cities etc, hiking... whatever people recommend!

Apologies for this being a bit vague and long winded, but I'm just trying to get some info at the moment so if anyone has any suggestions for this trip please let me know.

In reply to theomoore:

First thing I would say is get ready to bake. New England in August will be 35-40 degrees.

The Gunks in upstate New York has the best trad climbing in the East. It's a brilliant place to climb and I couldn't recommend it more. It's about a four hour drive from Boston. If you are going to do one thing, that's it.

There is good granite trad in New Hampshire at White Horse/Cathedral. 2.5-3 hours drive North.

If you are willing to slum it and sport climb, Rumney in New Hampshire is the closest option.

In terms of partners, I would start by looking at http://www.mountainproject.com/

Whatever you want to do, you will need a car.

I've spent 10 years in the area, so DM me if you want details.

In reply to HakanT:

Debatable, but only because there is so much quality climbing in the Adirondaks and New Hampshire too. It is awesome though. And definitely has a very high concentration of quality routes.

Also the Adirondaks in upstate New York is a wilderness area larger than Wales and has loads of Rock Climbing. A particularly good day out is Rogers Rock.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rogers-rock/106092131

Acadia National Park in Maine, is a beautiful area with sea cliff climbing, You could combine sea kayaking with the climbing. There are also massive and cheap (relative to the UK) lobsters.

You could hike the Aappalaichan, New England or Long Trail. There is also loads of Kayaking, white and flat water. In fact there is so much water in the NE compared to the UK, you can always finish off a hot day climbing with a nice swim.

Beer and food are really good in Vermont, and is the most beautiful state in the NE in my opinion, however doesn't have as much rock climbing as NH or NY. There is some but I haven't done it, mostly been there fore skiing (sorry not much help for you in August!)

For partners try Mountain Project. I would offer but I climb nowhere near your level.

You're right about needing a car, however depending on your personal car insurance and your credit card, you can hopefully avoid taking out the companies rip off insurance/damage waiver/excess protection that can double your cost. Also worth going with a big company like Enterprise as it's easy to swap out a car wherever you are.

RE your gear, if you fly with Virgin they give you a free bag for sports equipment, I phoned them when I came of and they were fine with including climbing gear (they didn't even check it). So as long as you are renting a car, which you should be, it shouldn't be a hassle to bring your rope. I'd advise it, especially if you prefer doubles, most people here use singles, unless climbing something requiring a long abseil.

Damn, climbing season is just getting underway here after a long, cold winter and writing this has made me sad that I have a torn rotator cuff

In reply to theomoore:

Thanks a lot for the advice so far! I've made a post on mountain project so I'll wait and see what comes of it.

dsh, if you want a partner in August I would be more than happy to climb together - grades can wait, and certainly when I'm trying out a new rocktype and area. I would rather explore and climb quality routes than push my limit!

In reply to theomoore:
Ok well lets see in August then, I'm sure I could manage a weekend or 2! I have an injury and no head right now but hopefully that will change by August.

In reply to theomoore:

I have in-laws in Boston so have been in your position a few times. I've only climbed in 3 locations - Rumney: Ok sport climbing but nothing special IMO - Quincy Quarry, right in Boston city: Lawrencefield would be the best comparison I can think of - probably worth a visit after work, but I don't know about summer temperatures - and the Gunks: a 3 star location as others have said.

I think you could probably link up with partners at the Gunks but that's not what I did. I got in touch with the Boston Chapter of the Appalachian Mountaineering Club via their website and I found a friendly group of people to climb with that way. Another good possibility for linking up with partners could be the Boston Rock Gym. Expect to be asked to demonstrate that you can tie on and belay before they will let you in - all fairly relaxed though.

My experience is now 3 or 4 years old though, so the local knowledge above will be more reliable.

Martin