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Climbing in Pakistan - 2015

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Summithunter 30 Apr 2015
Hello Everyone ,

I know this questions must has been asked several times in the past however i am looking for an update from anyone who has travelled to pakistan in last couple of years.

I am planning to visit pakistan for trek to K2 Base Camp and climb a peak between 6000mts to 7000mts.

a) If anyone could update in regards with current situation in Pakistan and how safe they have felt in their recent travel
b) If they could suggest any good trekking agencies and guide . ( I would need a guide atleast for my climb to the peak)
c) I have short listed three peaks and if anyone could suggest which peak should i be looking to climb from i) Pastoro peak (6190m) b) Mitre peak (6238m) or c) Cluster peak (6237m)

I have a bit of experience in climbing in Nepal, Bolivia and Peru which have been below 7000mts.
 JR 30 Apr 2015
In reply to Summithunter:

Try Akbar and Anwar at Lela Peak expeditions these http://www.lelapeakexpedition.com.pk/

I wouldn't recommend climbing Mitre Peak - was falling down the entire time I was there in 2011.

People will have been more recently than me, and lots of security developments since then but main recommendation would be fly from IBD to Skardu. Once you're in Skardu you'll be fine.
 BruceM 30 Apr 2015
In reply to Summithunter:

I presume you have found this from last year? I found it very useful:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=601770
m0unt41n 30 Apr 2015
In reply to Summithunter:

Give yourself plenty of spare days since flights into and out of Skardu often cancelled due to weather.
 JdotP 01 May 2015
In reply to Summithunter:

Hi,

Having looked into it in detail (including starting the thread referenced above), I decided I was not prepared to go. Out of all the people we consulted (some quite expert, with links to Pakistan army) none gave a convincing reason why a repeat of the 2013 Nanga Parbat base camp shootings could not occur, except this time in Gilgit or Skardu,

The problem with the plane (apart from the fact that it only takes you as far as Gilgit or Skardu) is that the flights are constantly being cancelled, so it basically adds ~2 weeks onto what must already be a long holiday if you are going to have any chance of success in the Karakorum. Also if you spend your entire time in Pakistan dashing in taxi from Airport to Hotel then back to the Airport then it gets quite expensive and does not really feel like a holiday.
 JR 01 May 2015
In reply to JdotP:

> Having looked into it in detail (including starting the thread referenced above), I decided I was not prepared to go. Out of all the people we consulted (some quite expert, with links to Pakistan army) none gave a convincing reason why a repeat of the 2013 Nanga Parbat base camp shootings could not occur, except this time in Gilgit or Skardu,

I think the situation in Gilgit/Skardu has recently changed, as they were taken off the FCO no go list about 2 weeks ago.
 AndyC 02 May 2015
In reply to John Roberts (JR):

> I think the situation in Gilgit/Skardu has recently changed, as they were taken off the FCO no go list about 2 weeks ago.

Yes - and I also read that there are plans to put new aircraft on the ISB - Gilgit and Skardu routes so that there should be more flights and fewer cancellations. I was last there in 2012 and I would go back tomorrow if I could.

Second your recommendation for Lela Peak Expeditions - Anwar and Akbar are excellent.
dannorris 02 May 2015
In reply to Summithunter:

Whether you decide to go or not, this is a fascinating background read:

http://www.theguardian.com/books/2011/may/01/pakistan-hard-country-anatol-l...
Summithunter 06 May 2015
Thanks to everyone for the inputs and suggestions.

Whilst its definately a risk to visit to Pakistan my craving to visit this region from years doesnt seem to stop.

Has anyone who has travelled in 2013 or 2014 share their experience ?

Is anyone from this community planning to travel this August or September ? May be we could go together? Share costs and feel safe in each others company.

I dont really want to travel in large group and would be ok with a group of 2 -3 individuals .
 beckycoles 06 May 2015
In reply to Summithunter:

I understand that in the last couple of weeks, due to the change in FCO advice, KE Adventure are planning on running several of their commercial trekking trips again.
 Mr. Lee 07 May 2015
In reply to AndyC:

There used to be two flights in the morning to Gilgit a couple of years ago but currently there is just one. I've no idea whether this was due to a lack of demand or whether planes were decommissioned. Less trekkers and climbers I imagine but then the Mansehra Shia massacre has probably encouraged a few more people to fly in stead of take the road. Plus it seems the road journey is longer due to security checks along the KKH further encouraging people to fly. Presumably these new planes won't increase flight numbers vs. the level a couple of years ago but if the departures were more reliable then that would be a great improvement.
 Mr. Lee 07 May 2015
In reply to Summithunter:

> a) If anyone could update in regards with current situation in Pakistan and how safe they have felt in their recent travel

Going this summer and it will be the first time in a while, so can't really answer this question for you. From previous experience the Gilgit-Baltistan area North and East of Gilgit has always felt very safe. You might have read there was a road bomb last October on the Gilgit-Skardu road that killed three people. So not entirely 'safe'. For me personally there is the risk associated with the trip vs. the risk of going through life and not chasing my ambitions to consider. To me the risk seem manageable with good planning and understanding of the areas to be visited but it is partly a personal decision.

> b) If they could suggest any good trekking agencies and guide . ( I would need a guide atleast for my climb to the peak)

I've only used ATP and never had problems. They've sorted my visa invitation very professionally and have been very helpful with my planning, beyond just the services they are offering.

> c) I have short listed three peaks and if anyone could suggest which peak should i be looking to climb from i) Pastoro peak (6190m) b) Mitre peak (6238m) or c) Cluster peak (6237m)

> I have a bit of experience in climbing in Nepal, Bolivia and Peru which have been below 7000mts.

These peaks are going to be harder than what I suspect you have climbed in the above places. Not many peaks in the Karakoram come easy in comparision. Gondogoro Peak is the most commonly climbed peak in the area. Maybe consider Shimshal if you want to do a trek/climb combination? Mingling sar is an easy 6000m peak.
 Damo 07 May 2015
In reply to Mr. Lee:

> Going this summer and it will be the first time in a while, ... For me personally there is the risk associated with the trip vs. the risk of going through life and not chasing my ambitions to consider. To me the risk seem manageable with good planning and understanding of the areas to be visited but it is partly a personal decision.


That's pretty much the situation and internal debate me and a mate are having right now, with pretty much the same conclusion.
 Damo 09 May 2015
In reply to Damo:

Although…

http://thediplomat.com/2015/01/terror-outfits-build-presence-in-gilgit-balt...

"Given the geopolitical dynamics and Gilgit-Baltistan’s shared borders with China’s Xinjiang Province, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and the Indian region of Ladakh, it was not a matter of if it was going to happen but how soon. In the last two years, the Taliban has been involved in sporadic attacks in Gilgit-Baltistan, killing dozens, including local minorities, military officials, and tourists… there is a strong indication that a Taliban-ISIS crescent of control is emerging with its epicenter in Northern Pakistan. As Lashkar-e-Jhangvi and ASWJ have a strong presence in Gilgit-Baltistan, their potential collaboration with ISIS is a concern for the region where the majority Shias are their prime target."
Summithunter 11 May 2015
 AndyC 11 May 2015
In reply to Summithunter:

Yep - helicopters are dangerous! I used them to get to work for 28 years. Would never ride in one for fun.
Summithunter 12 May 2015
In reply to AndyC:

ha ha ..looks like you were part of taliban too

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