UKC

Anyone like to share good / bad experience with the Elderid Slider? I'm thinking about getting a couple for building belays as they seem a bit quicker to use, and you can't forget to screw them up. Anyone found that the mechanism doesn't wear well or gets clog with crud or anything like that?

In reply to RyanOsborne:

Looks like it fills a similar niche to Grivel mega twingates. I'm a huge fan of the Grivel ones - can also clip/unclip one-handed, can also slide them around, and I suspect the Grivels would put up with ice/snow much better than the Edelrid (looks like the slider could probably freeze shut, but that's just a guess). Only downside is the Grivel's are heavy - but since you only have 1-2 for belays and power points, I don't mind the extra 40g or so.

In reply to RyanOsborne:

Are you planning to use them as a carabiner for a single piece of protection in anchor system or in a master point?

I was not really impressed by sliders as they seemed to open really easily. Definitely more secure than wiregate, but not by a huge margin.

In reply to PPP:

I was thinking of using the smaller D shaped ones for the individual bits of gear in a belay and the HMS for the master point.

Was your experience from using them or from playing with them in a shop?

In reply to RyanOsborne:

Just from shop really, but I considered getting some of them (given I have Gridlock, Gridlock Magnetron, Edelrid Nineteen G, Rhino, DMM Oval with Quicklock gate, etc., I am quite a gear addict and like to see if these strange carabiners work).

I wasn't sold purely because if the wiregate touches the rock, that's basically the only one way to open a wiregate in an anchor system (rope/sling is less likely to open the gate, IMHO). While slider gate has a lower surface area which allows the gate to be open, it is still the same direction. Lately I have been using two opposite and opposed carabiners for crucial pieces which in theory are safer than screwgates. However, I really love Edelrid Pure Wire carabiners which I own.

On the other hand, Mammut Element screwgates are 3g heavier than Edelrid Pure Slider and they are 15 quid for 3-pack on RockRun.com (instead of 15 pounds for one Pure Slider!). Both Element and Pure carabiners are identical in teroms of size and shape.

In reply to PPP:

I would similarly see them as a somewhat more secure normal krab, rather than a screwgate equivalent. I have a quickdraw with two of them for scenarios where there's only one piece of gear between me and harm's way. Haven't used it much yet though.

In reply to RyanOsborne:
Not sure if it was with the type of krab you are thinking of but I recently had an awkward experience with one brand with a gate locking mechanism that was automatically spring-loaded shut. You could open it with one hand but it didn't stay open. If you let go the gate shut and locked automatically with springs. I had to pick up some heavy kit from it, or maybe release myself, in a location where I needed one hand to hold on (can't remember exactly why, something to do with photographs). After a few rounds of 1) twist lock back, 2) open gate, 3) let go to lift equipment/release self, 4) gate instantly snaps shut and locks before I can lift the equipment out/release self, I managed to lean on the locking mechanism and wedge it open so I could press the gate open with the sling the equipment was hanging off or my harness loop.

Probably it is rare to need a locking gate in places where you can only have one hand free but it is something to bear in mind. From this I would prefer at least some krabs with locking mechanism that did not always lock automatically.

In reply to RyanOsborne:

im certain there was a detailed discussion on the slider and twin gates a few months ago

sliders to me were more secure than regular carabiners but far less secure that screwgates.... does that make sense?

do the search, the thread should pop up easy enough

In reply to valjean:

I can't find anything recently. There was a thread about a year ago, but there weren't any contributions from anyone who had used it in real life, only people who'd fiddled with it in a shop.

Maybe the grivel twin gates would be better suited to what I want, it's just that they look a bit fiddly with one hand.

In reply to RyanOsborne:

I use a HMS Slider to belay with, matching it with a Mega Jul. Pleasure to use, only fault would be that the gate is difficult to open if your hands are sweaty (and damn near impossible to open with chunky gloves on). Pretty perfect for standard sport though.

In reply to Removed User:

Cheers for your response. Would you say that the slider wouldn't be suitable for use in anchors? Do you think there's a realistic possibility that the gate would be pushed open by it being pressed against a rock when used in an anchor or do you think that's unlikely?

In reply to RyanOsborne:

I think it'd be a one in a zillion chance of it happening, but it's something that would never happen with a screwgate simply due to design. I wouldn't hesitate to use it in an anchor, indeed I have done in the past.

In reply to RyanOsborne:

Grivel twingates are no probs for clipping slings one-handed. Hold the basket in the palm of your hand, and use your thumb to flick the outer gate open, and then wedge any sling/rope into the opening - it will push the inner gate open. Unclipping is ever so slightly harder, but basically involves holding the basket in the palm, pulling the inner gate open (both gates have ridges that jut out for grabbing) and bringing the rope/sling into the opening, which forces the outer gate open.

In reply to RyanOsborne:
I've got a bunch of them for reviewing and am rather impressed so far. When you first use them it takes some time to convince yourself they are as safe as screwgates, but screw gates come undone if you don't use them wisely so few things are completely idiot proof. Could the mech be pushed open somehow? I'm sure it could if you are unlucky or unwise, but that's true of most climbing gear ultimately. Dave and Kev did a good review of them here: https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/08/07/edelrid-pure-slider/

In reply to RyanOsborne:

Thanks all for the replies. Toby - that was my thought too, the chances of the slider coming undone in a belay is pretty much zero if you're paying attention / aware of it when you set the belay up.

Have you used the HMS version with a belay plate at all? I'd probably be inclined to stick to a screwgate for that, what do you reckon?

In reply to PPP:



Have you thought about seeing somebody for this affliction?