UKC

So... I have been stupid last year and bought something that looked nice and were cheap enough.

I bought a pair of Beal Ice Line II 60m 8.1mm dry treated ropes for mountain use and winter climbing. No complaints so far, apart from the strange feeling that you are using shoe lace instead of a climbing rope. I don't want to use them for single pitch stuff as there's no need to save weight.

I also bought DMM Spectrum 50m 8.8mm for cragging use and I double it up for single pitch crags. However, I would like to find another rope for it so I could use two ropes for taller crags and preserve Ice Lines from being destroyed. The problem is that DMM Spectrum is discontinued (no wonder why it was so cheap!) and there's no other half rope with a 8.8mm diameter. Beal makes Mountain Pro 8.8mm half rope, but I haven't seen it in the UK market. There are plenty 8.5mm ropes, but I don't know if that would work together with 8.8mm rope. It should work as there's only one rope to be loaded at the time, but I don't want to risk.

TLDR: Will I die if I use a 8.5mm rope together with 8.8mm?

P.s. I usually use a direct belay and I am not sure how well that would work.

In reply to PPP:

No death. The difference between 8.5mm and 8.8mm is miniscule (and, if I remember correctly, almost within the UIAA tolerances for rope diameters). I regularly climb on a 9.2mm and 8.5mm, and I'm still alive.

In reply to PPP:

Yes.

But only because while you are worrying about tiny differences in rope diameter instead of the many other fun and exciting ways to dry in the mountains...

In reply to tehmarks:

Thanks! I did some searching on UKC, but the results were inconclusive.

It's funny how 8.5mm and 8.8mm don't feel that much different, but 8.1mm and 8.5mm feel very different!

In reply to andrewmcleod:


I wish I knew fun and exciting ways to dry in the mountains, normally when trying to dry I end up miserable

In reply to andrewmcleod:

Some people believe that studying for exams is more important than climbing. While I disagree with it, there's only one exam left this week (had one last Friday and 5 more this week!).

But thanks for inspiration to go climbing - can't wait for the weekend!

In reply to PPP:

This is not an unusual combination. Many people climb with one of their ropes and one of their partners in combination and its very rare they are the same diameter ! I'd certainly be happy with it

Only problem I ever had with different diameter ropes was rappelling with Shunt. It wasn't blocking on smaller rope then loaded. Had to replace it with a prusik.

In reply to nutme:

Cheers - I am aware of that. I have the Shunt, but I rarely use it.

In reply to climbwhenready:

Bugger :P

In reply to PPP:


Sorry if my reply seemed a bit snarky; I was trying to avoid that but failed! :P I was aiming for a more general comment that many people seem to worry to much about the risks that aren't important, and that spilled over onto you... have fun when your exams are finished!


That's what weekends were invented for, right?

In reply to PPP:

Valar Morghulis.

In reply to PPP: you would be worrying about 0.7mm - I think you needn't worry.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

Nah, that's alright. I was cynical about saying that exams are more important. I am just freaking out and itching to get some climbing done!

Weekends were invented for weekend warriors. Last summer I always finished work at 9am(ish), so I could every day. It was part-time job just to sustain living costs, but I am doing an internship this summer .

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Cheers.

In reply to PPP:


Totally depends on the ropes. I think it's really arbitary what they print on labels - I'd take it with a big pinch of salt.

BTW, my iceline was the best rope I've ever had, lasted forever. You are probably being precious not using for summer climbing, although obviously it will last longer if you don't.

In reply to TobyA:

They are also low-impact forces (= longer falls), which are not always appreciated in 10m tall crags...

In reply to PPP:

Do you take many whippers? Again in the real world I suspect the different between an icelines and some other modern half rope isn't really that much in terms of stretch.

In reply to TobyA:

I try not to! I'll see how it goes, will either pair with someone else's 8.5mm or just bring two 8.1mm ropes. I have read some reviews saying that they aren't as durable while others claim that they don't wear that much. On the other hand, they are unicores, so there's a little bit less to worry about.

For me, even jugging a 10.2mm rope can be quite an effort because of the stretch. I spent around two hours today hanging on the rope and jugging back and forth, I really hoped for a static rope!